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Gaja – The rebel who reinvented Piedmont

The history of the Gaja winery is the story of a man who refused to be like everyone else. The estate was founded in 1859 by Giovanni Gaja, who opened a small tavern in Barbaresco, where he served his own wines. But the real turning point came more than a century later, when Angelo Gaja, aged just 21, took over the management from his father in 1961. The young man had studied oenology in Alba and Montpellier, as well as economics in Turin – an unusual combination that reflected his irrepressible drive for change.

In the decades that followed, Angelo Gaja revolutionised Piedmontese viticulture. He introduced wire-trellis training, increased vine density, drastically reduced yields and focused on temperature control during fermentation. When he began ageing his wines in new French barriques and planted one of his finest vineyards with Cabernet Sauvignon instead of Nebbiolo, he faced fierce criticism. His father commented on this bold move with just one word: ‘Darmagi’ – a pity. Yet Angelo remained undeterred and became a pioneer of modern Piedmontese wine culture.

In 1967, he was the first winemaker in the region to bottle a single-vineyard wine, the Sori San Lorenzo. Further milestones followed: the Sori Tildin and the Costa Russi, which today rank among Italy’s most legendary wines. The estate’s vineyards span the most renowned terroirs of Piedmont – in Barbaresco, Barolo and the Langhe.

Today, the estate is run by the fourth – and now fifth – generation: Angelo’s children Gaia, Rossana and Giovanni. The estate’s wines are among the most sought-after and expensive in the world. They are regularly awarded the highest ratings by international critics . Angelo Gaja himself, long a living legend and honoured with the nickname ‘Angelo Nazionale’, has not only revolutionised Piedmontese viticulture but has also elevated the whole of Italy to absolute world-class status. Gaja is more than just a winery – it embodies the unshakable spirit of a rebel, preserving in every bottle the legacy of his bold vision.