Weingut Keller - Dalsheimer Bürgel Pinot Noir GG Grosses Gewächs dry 2023

Weingut Keller - Dalsheimer Bürgel Pinot Noir Grosses Gewächs dry 2023

A report

The Keller winery from Flörsheim-Dalsheim is undisputedly one of the great addresses in German viticulture. While the estate's international fame is primarily based on its outstanding Rieslings, a quiet but no less significant revolution has taken place in the Pinot Noir segment over the last two decades. The 2023 Dalsheimer Bürgel Pinot Noir Grosses Gewächs (GG) is a shining example of the claim to produce Burgundy of the highest international class in the Palatinate - or more precisely in southern Rheinhessen.

The location: Dalsheimer Bürgel

The Dalsheimer Bürgel site is virtually predestined for Pinot Noir. It is a south-east facing shell limestone slope, characterised by its enormous steepness and extremely stony, nutrient-poor soil. This limestone, which differs significantly from the clay and sandstone-emphasised sites of the Roter Hang, forces the vines to develop deep roots and gives the wines a characteristic tension, mineral depth and delicate structure. The microclimate is favoured by the sheltered location, which stores heat during the day and ensures a natural acid structure at night thanks to falling temperatures.

The 2023 vintage

The 2023 vintage in Rheinhessen was characterised by an interplay between challenge and grace. A relatively cool spring with late bud break was followed by a hot summery July, which accelerated ripening. August and September then brought significant drops in temperature with cool nights, which ensured slow, physiological ripening. These conditions were ideal for Pinot Noir: they enabled phenolic ripeness with consistently fresh acidity. Yields were low due to the drought in previous years and natural selection on the steep slopes, which further increased the concentration of the berries.

Sensory characteristics and character

The 2023 Dalsheimer Bürgel Spätburgunder GG presents itself in the glass with a clear, medium-deep garnet-red colour with light violet reflections, which indicates youth and vitality.

On the nose, it initially opens with restraint, as great Burgundies often do. With a little aeration, a complex bouquet of red forest berries unfolds: fresh cherry, wild raspberry and cranberry, followed by fine floral notes of violets and dried rose petals. The typical limestone signature is evident in the form of delicate chalky minerality, underpinned by a subtle spicy note - some cinnamon, clove and a hint of wet stone. The wood maturation (20-30 per cent new barriques) is excellently integrated and is characterised less by toasty aromas than by a noble, barely perceptible frame.

The wine shows its true greatness on the palate. Despite the warm year, it retains a remarkable coolness and elegance. The attack is juicy, with a precise, taut acidity that structures the entire drinking flow. The tannins are fine-grained, almost silky, but still have enough substance to guarantee the wine a long life. The fruit is clear and puristic without ever appearing overripe or alcohol-heavy. The alcohol is ideally integrated at around 13.5 per cent by volume. A long, salty minerality unfolds on the finish, impressively reflecting the limestone soil of the Bürgel.

Rating and potential

The Dalsheimer Bürgel Spätburgunder GG 2023 is a wine that clearly bears the signature of Klaus Peter Keller: precision, reduction to the essentials and the pursuit of Burgundian elegance without denying its origins. Compared to the often more powerful Pinot Noirs from the Rheingau or the Palatinate, this wine emphasises finesse and longevity.

At the moment it is still in a youthful phase. If you open it now, you should give it enough time in the decanter or several hours in the carafe. However, it will develop its true potential after five to eight years at the earliest and gain complexity and depth over the following decade.

Food recommendation

Due to its structure and freshness, this Pinot Noir is recommended as an accompaniment to sophisticated dishes. Roast duck breast with cranberry sauce, tender game such as saddle of venison or mature hard cheeses such as Comté or a flavoursome Bernese Alpine cheese are ideal. It also goes harmoniously with autumn mushroom dishes such as porcini risotto or truffles.

Conclusion

With the 2023 Dalsheimer Bürgel Pinot Noir Grosses Gewächs, Weingut Keller has achieved another success in the premier class of German red wines. It proves that great Burgundies are not a contradiction to the German terroir, but that the limestone-dominated vineyards of Rheinhessen in particular have the potential to produce wines that need not shy away from comparison with top international wines. A head of character with grace that rewards patience.