Van Volxem - Scharzhofberger PERGENTSKNOPP Riesling VDP Grosses Gewächs dry 2015

Van Volxem Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp Riesling VDP Großes Gewächs dry 2015

1. Introduction

The 2015 Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp from Van Volxem is one of the most outstanding dry Rieslings in the entire Mosel-Saar-Ruwer region. As a VDP Großes Gewächs (GG) from the Saar's most famous site, it combines the power of the extremely ripe 2015 vintage with the cool, slate-influenced elegance of the Scharzhofberg. The wine is not a mass product, but the result of uncompromising manual harvesting, spontaneous fermentation and long bottle ageing - a monument to German terroir Riesling.

2. The Van Volxem Winery

Weingut Van Volxem, based in Wiltingen on the Saar, can look back on more than two thousand years of winemaking tradition. The vineyards around Wiltingen were already being cultivated by the Romans. After a chequered history, the estate experienced a spectacular renaissance from 2000 under Roman Niewodniczanski. He expanded the estate to over 70 hectares, including prestigious plots in the Scharzhofberg, the Wiltinger Braunfels and the Kanzemer Altenberg.

Van Volxem's philosophy is consistently focussed on great, dry Rieslings that are bottled without filtration or fining. The wines ferment spontaneously with their own yeasts and usually mature in large, neutral oak barrels. The aim is not sweetness or fruity accessibility, but mineral depth, structure and the pure representation of the respective terroir.

3. The Scharzhofberg - the site

The Scharzhofberg is one of the oldest and most famous vineyards in Germany. The steep, south-west facing slope consists of deep, Devonian slate weathered soil with a high proportion of rock. Due to the dark colour of the slate, the soil warms up quickly, stores the heat and releases it to the vines at night, while the cool air exchange along the Saar ensures slow ripening and high acid stability.

The Pergentsknoppparcel is a particularly steep, high-lying section of the Scharzhofberg. The name refers to a previous owner or to the arduous labour on the slope ("Knopp" = button, perhaps a field name). Some of the vines here are over 60 years old and have no roots, penetrating deep into the fissured slate. These vines produce only very low yields, but an extraordinary concentration and flavour.

4. The 2015 vintage

The 2015 wine year on the Saar and Moselle was characterised by an exceptionally warm, dry spring and summer. The vines started early, flowering was ideal and a long, sunny ripening phase in August and September led to physiologically fully ripe grapes with high must weights and good acidity. Unlike in hot vintages, the nights remained cool so that the acidity values remained at a refreshing level. The harvest took place under ideal conditions; the grapes were healthy, concentrated and intensely flavoured. Strict selection was carried out for the Van Volxem Großes-Gewächs wines; only fully ripe and undamaged grapes found their way into the fermenting cellars.

5. The wine in detail

• Description: Van Volxem Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp Riesling VDP Großes Gewächs dry 2015

• Grape variety: 100 % Riesling

• Yield: Very low (under 50 hl/ha)

• Vinification: Spontaneous fermentation in large wooden barrels (1200 litres, neutral), maturation on the lees for several months. No fining, no filtration.

• Alcohol content: approx. 12.5 % vol.

• Residual sugar: approx. 4-5 g/l (dry flavour)

• Acidity: approx. 7-8 g/litre

The Pergentsknopp is the most prestigious site in the Van Volxem portfolio and is vinified separately from the other Scharzhofberger parcels. The bottle is recognisable by the VDP estate cap and the GG imprint.

6. Tasting note

Even after almost a decade, the 2015 Pergentsknopp is still youthful, but already showing the first signs of development.

Colour: Bright, shiny straw yellow with greenish reflections - a sign of freshness and vitality.

Nose: Very complex and deep. Initially dominated by stony, smoky and slightly petrol-like notes (slate, flint). This is followed by ripe, but not overripe fruit flavours: yellow apple, ripe pear, lemon zest, grapefruit, some white nectarine and a hint of quince. With increasing aeration, floral tones (acacia blossom, lime blossom) and a fine herbal flavour (lemon thyme, tarragon) are added. The oxidation is minimal - the wine is still very fresh.

Palate:Powerful, concentrated attack with a creamy texture, but never heavy. The acidity is taut, precise and long-lasting - it literally carries the minerality through the mouth. The wine is dry, but the residual sweetness is perfectly integrated and balances the acidity without suggesting sweetness. Notes of lime, green apple, a little peach stone and a distinctive, salty minerality. The slate reveals itself as a fine, grainy tannin on the palate.

Finish:Very long, mineral, with a hint of grapefruit bitterness and a lingering, cool slate flavour. The acidity remains present without biting.

7. Ageing potential and drinking window

The 2015 Pergentsknopp is a classic lager Riesling. Although it is already quite enjoyable now (2026), it is still far from its peak. The structure of concentrated extract fullness, cool acidity and phenolic ripeness suggests a very long lifespan.

• Early drinking maturity: 2022-2026 (youthful, fruit-driven, rough minerality)

• Optimum ripeness: 2028-2035 (here the complex tertiary flavours with honey, wax, ripe stone fruit and intense slate notes will become apparent)

• Very long ageing potential: until approx. 2040 and beyond

Recommendation: Decant the wine at least two hours before drinking or leave it in the open bottle, as it is still tightly sealed when young. Serve at temperatures around 11-12 °C.

8. Goes well with...

Due to its powerful body and distinctive acidity, the 2015 Pergentsknopp is an ideal accompaniment to sophisticated dishes:

• Roasted or grilled zander, char or turbot with herb sauce

• Veal fillet with morels or light-coloured veal jus

• Smoked eel or trout

• Asian cuisine: hot and sour soups, roast duck with hoisin sauce

• Mature, creamy goat's cheese or Comté (older vintages)

As a soloist, it unfolds its full fascination after half an hour in the glass.

9. Conclusion

The Van Volxem Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp Riesling VDP Großes Gewächs trocken 2015is a masterpiece of modern, terroir-driven Riesling viticulture. It combines the sunshine of the 2015 summer of the century with the cool, slatey soul of the Scharzhofberg. Anyone opening a bottle today should be patient - the true greatness of this wine will only fully reveal itself in five to ten years. For collectors and lovers of deep, mineral Rieslings, the Pergentsknopp is an absolute benchmark and a testament to the fact that dry Riesling from the Saar is among the world's best.