Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Masseto 1988

Tenuta dell'Ornellaia Masseto 1988

1. Introduction and historical background

The 1988 Masseto is the second commercial vintage of the legendary Merlot wine from the Tenuta dell’Ornellaia estate in Bolgheri (Tuscany). The history of Masseto began ‘almost by chance’ in 1986, when it was it was decided to vinify the Merlot from the vineyard of the same name separately, as it appeared ‘promising’. The first vintage was simply labelled ‘Merlot’; from 1987 onwards, the wine was given the name of the vineyard: Masseto.

The name is derived from the ‘massi’ – hard, clumpy lumps of clay that form on the surface of the vineyard. This unique terroir comprises just seven hectares of vineyards, planted on Pliocene, clay-rich soil, benefiting from a mild Mediterranean climate and gentle sea breezes.

2. Conditions of the 1988 vintage

The growing season for the 1988 vintage was characterised by generally hot, sunny weather right up to the final stages of berry ripening. Temperatures peaked in August. Towards the end of the season, however, more moderate temperatures had a balancing effect, which helped the wine to maintain its balance.

The Merlot harvest for this vintage took place on 14 September 1988. The vines were five years old at this point – the age at which plants begin to show a natural balance and develop their terroir character.

3. Winemaking

The 1988 Masseto is madeexclusively from Merlot grapes. The vineyard is divided into three plots – Masseto Alto, Masseto Centrale and Masseto Junior – each with different clay soils.

The maceration period lasts 3–4 weeks, followed by malolactic fermentation in barriques. The wine is then blended and agedin wood for a further 12 months.

4. Tasting notes

Appearance

Pale ruby with garnet clarity in the glass.

Aromas (Nose)

The wine captivates with its breathtaking complexity, featuring intense notes of:

• cigar box

• Black truffle

• Straw

• Pipe tobacco

Further aromas include blackberries, cassis and mint, as well as cherry, plum and berries.

On the palate

The attack is fleshy and ripe. The wine is dense and full-bodied, with the robust tannin structure typical of the vintage . However, the tannins are also described as round and velvety. The wine is rich, intense and well-balanced, with delicate notes of ripe fruit, liquorice, spices and minerality.

Finish

Complete and long. The acidity carries the finish, whilst the mouthfeel, with hints of liquorice root, fills with flavours of savoury prunes and blackberries.

5. Critics’ ratings

The 1988 Masseto is regarded, alongside the 1985 and 1990vintages , as one ofthe great vintages of the decade.

6. Ageing potential and drinking recommendation

The 1988 Masseto has reachedits peak and is now showing itself in all its glory. Experts recommend drinking it between 2018 and 2020, although it will remain drinkable beyond this period (drinking window until 2045 according to TastingBook). It is recommended to decant the wine about an hour before serving.

The wine is now fully mature and displays a translucent, elegant structure. Anyone who owns bottles should not store them for too much longer.

7. Price and availability

The 1988 Masseto is a highly sought-after collector’s item that is traded at auctions worldwide.

Masseto’s annual production is between 2,000 and 2,400 cases, which explains its scarcity and high prices.

8. Summary

The 1988 Masseto is an iconic Italian wine that impressively demonstrates the quality and potential of the Masseto terroir. With ratings of up to 98 points (Decanter) and 96 points (Robert Parker), it ranks among the great vintages of the 1980s. The wine is now at the peak of its maturity and offers a complex, elegant tasting experience with notes of cigar box, truffle, ripe berries and fine tannins. For collectors and connoisseurs of top-quality Italian wines, the 1988 Masseto is a legend and an unforgettable tasting experience.