Reichsrat von Buhl – Kirchenstück GG Grosses Gewächs 2015

The Reichsrat von Buhl Forster Kirchenstück Riesling Großes Gewächs 2015 is an outstanding example of the art of winemaking in the Palatinate and a true gem amongst the Großes Gewächs wines. The Reichsrat von Buhl winery, which has been based in Deidesheim for over 150 years, ranks among the region’s most renowned estates. The wine comes from the famous single vineyard Forster Kirchenstück, which was already recognised in the Bavarian classification of 1828 as the Palatinate’s most valuable vineyard – a benchmark for its exceptional quality that remains valid to this day.

The ‘Kirchenstück’, covering an area of just around three hectares, is a tiny, exclusive site, which is also spread across several estates, making it a rarity from the outset. The Reichsrat von Buhl estate owns the largest share of this unique site, at 0.85 hectares. The vines grow on a diverse soil composition of sandstone, limestone rubble, basalt and loess. A distinctive feature is the six-foot-high sandstone wall that surrounds and protects the site; it stores the heat absorbed during the day and releases it to the vines at night, which contributes significantly to the wine’s fruitiness and ripeness.

Yields in this premier vineyard are, by their very nature, extremely low. Indeed, in 2015, a further quarter of the vineyard area was grubbed up, to preserve the soil for subsequent replanting. The remaining plots, some of which have been in existence since 1985, yielded less than 20 hectolitres per hectare – a negligibly small yield that further emphasises of this wine.

The 2015 vintage in the Palatinate is generally described as outstanding for Riesling , with excellent ripeness, concentration and lively acidity. This is impressively reflected in the Kirchenstück GG. The wine has an alcohol content of 13.5% vol.. On the nose, it displays a complex and beguiling bouquet: The aroma is reminiscent of dried flowers, lime, flint and subtle petrol-like notes, evoking a Riesling that has already matured. These are complemented by aromas of quince, almond cream and candied grapefruit.

On the palate, the Kirchenstück captivates with the generous character of the vintage. It is full-bodied, witha velvety texture and an almost sweet yet dry flavour profile, which is by no means fruit-driven. The integrated, crystal-clear acidity lends the wine tension and freshness. Notes of stone fruit, ripe yellow fruit and a salty, oyster-shell-like minerality characterise the flavour, before a long, intense and grippy finish follows.

Critics were impressed by this wine. Jancis Robinson awarded it17.5 out of 20 points, whilst the trade magazine ‘Mosel Fine Wines’ rated it 91+ points and attested to its great potential for the future. In a tasting organised by Farr Vintners , the wine was even awarded an outstanding 96+ points and described as a “breathtaking, dry, rich Riesling” that ranks among the absolute world’s best in its category.

It will be ready to drink from 2022 and will remain so until at least 2030, with some sources even suggesting it has ageing potential until 2038. It is an ideal accompaniment to rich fish dishes such as pan-fried scallops, but also with roast pork or subtly spiced Asian cuisine. This wine offers an extraordinary experience for discerning Riesling enthusiasts and collectors who wish to savour one of Germany’s most sought-after and complex dry white wines.