Palackozo Winery, Tolcsva – Vinum Tokajenese Tokaji 5 puttonyos aszú dry 1981 750ml with OC

Palackozó Üzem Tolcsva – Vinum Tokajenese Tokaji 5 puttonyos aszú dry 1981

1. Introduction

This wine is a 1981Tokaji Aszú 5 puttonyos, bottled at the Palackozó Üzem (bottling plant) in Tolcsva. The designation ‘Vinum Tokajenese’ (also Vinum Tokajense Passum) refers to the Latin name for Tokaj wine, which is historically known as ‘Vinum Regum, Rex Vinorum’ (Wine of Kings, King of Wines).

2. Origin and bottling

• Bottling location: Palackozó Üzem, Tolcsva (Hungary)

• Bottler: Tokajhegyaljai Állami Borkombinát (Tokaj-Hegyalja State Wine Combine)

• Bottle size: 0.5 l (common) or 0.75 l

• Closure: Original cork

The Palackozó Üzem in Tolcsva beganoperations in1974 and was responsible for bottling numerous Tokaj wines. During Hungary’s communist era, Tokaj wines were often bottled as mass-produced goods and also sold in German supermarkets. Nevertheless, this wine is a collector’s item worthy of a museum.

3. Wine characteristics

3.1 Type and style

A 5 puttonyos Aszú is a noble sweet dessert wine made from botrytised (affected by noble rot) grapes, predominantly of the Furmint variety . The term ‘dry’ in the title is misleading: classic 5 puttonyos Tokaji Aszú wines are exceptionally sweet. In fact, the wine is consistently described in the sources as ‘édes fehérbor’ (sweet white wine). The term ‘dry’ used here is likely to stem either from a misinterpretation or a specific, unusual bottling – but it is more likely that this isa sweet Tokaji Aszú.

3.2 Sensory description (based on comparable wines)

The following description is given for a similar 1983 Tokaji Aszú (also from Tolcsva):

• Colour: Dark brown-greyish, like black tea, with a yellowish-greenish meniscus – cloudy and creamy.

• Nose: Warm, intense and penetrating with complex tertiary aromas: molasses, pickled tart fruits, prunes, chocolate with caramel, ripe lemon.

• Palate: Good structure, body and lively acidity that remains present even after many years. The attack, development and finish differ markedly from one another – tart, salty, bitter and naturally sweet. A long, slightly astringent finish with hints of maple syrup and honey-lemon syrup.

Another Tokaji Aszú 5 puttonyos from the same vintage (not from Tolcsva) is described as having an orange-gold colour, a bouquet of honey and straw, quite sweet with a lovely flavour and good acidity.

4. Market availability and price

Today, the wine is mainly foundon auction platforms and at collectors’ fairs:

Prices vary considerably depending on condition, provenance and packaging. Bontatlan (unopened) bottles are particularly sought-after.

5. Drinking maturity and storage

Wines of this age and type are extremely long-lived. Tokaji Aszú can be stored for decades – in some cases even for centuries. The bottles are traditionally storedupright. A similar wine from 1983 still showed good structure, body and acidity at a tasting in 2016 and could probably have been stored for several more years. The 1981 vintage is likely to be at its peak, or very close to it, today .

6. Conclusion

The Palackozó Üzem Tolcsva – Vinum Tokajenese Tokaji 5 puttonyos aszú 1981 is a rare, museum-worthy collector’s item from Hungary’s communist era. It represents the long tradition of Tokaj winemaking – a wine that was once celebrated as the ‘wine of kings ’. Despite mass production in the 1980s, this vintage has the potential to developcomplex tertiary aromas and a surprisingly lively acidity after decades of ageing .

Those interested should definitely purchase the wine unopened and ensure it is stored correctly. When tasted , an exceptional, multi-layered flavour experience can be expected, a world away from today’s wines.