Keller Winery – Dry Riesling ‘Von der Fels’ 2024

Keller Winery – Dry Riesling ‘Von der Fels’ 2024: The ‘little G-Max’ in a great vintage

The dry Riesling ‘Von der Fels’ 2024 from Keller Winery is far more than just a simple estate wine – it is perhaps the best introduction to the world of one of Germany’s greatest winemakers and is affectionately known amongst connoisseurs as the ‘little G-Max’. Produced in a vintage that once again yielded outstanding wines in Rheinhessen, it impressively embodies the estate’s philosophy: terroir-driven wines full of energy, elegance and sophistication.

The Winery: A Family Among the World’s Best

The history of the Keller winery dates back to 1789. The real turning point came in 2001, when Klaus-Peter Keller took over the management from his father. Together with his wife Julia, he led the winery to the very pinnacle of the global wine scene. For several years now, their son Felix has also been playing an increasingly active role in the vineyards and the cellar. The renowned wine critic Antonio Galloni described Klaus-Peter Keller as “the face of German viticulture”, and the British wine critic Jancis Robinson hailed the estate’s wines in 2008 as “German Montrachets”. The estate in Flörsheim-Dalsheim comprises around 21 hectares of vineyards, of which approximately 85 per cent are classified as ‘Große Lage’ (premium sites). The estate’s philosophy is remarkably simple yet uncompromising: “We are happy – but never satisfied,” says Klaus-Peter Keller. His aim is to capture the character of each individual vineyard in the bottle – terroir-driven wines brimming with energy, elegance and sophistication.

The vineyard: ‘Von der Fels’ – a wine that breathes limestone

The name ‘Von der Fels’ – meaning ‘from the rock’ – says it all: the wine comes from the estate’s top limestone-dominated vineyards around Flörsheim-Dalsheim and Westhofen. The 2024 vintage blend comprises 50 per cent Kirchspiel and 50 per cent from Frauenberg, Hubacker, Abtserde and Morstein. Originally conceived as a cuvée made from grapes grown on young vines, the blend now increasingly incorporates grapes from more mature vines – the average age of the vines is now around 30 years. One barrel even comes from vines planted in 1964. A total of around 40,000 bottles were bottled. The result is a wine whose quality is drawing ever closer to the estate’s Grand Crus.

The 2024 vintage: precision, minerality and length

The 2024 vintage was characterised by favourable conditions in Rheinhessen and produced wines of remarkable clarity and structure. The ‘Von der Fels’ 2024 has an alcohol content of 12.5 per cent and displays the precision and minerality typical of the estate. Vinification took place in stainless steel and 600- to 2,400-litre oak barrels.

Tasting notes: Precision, minerality and length

In the glass, the ‘Von der Fels’ 2024 is a pale yellow with greenish highlights, clear and brilliant. The nose is clean, fresh and mineral: notes of lime zest, green apple, white peach and citrus blossom, accompanied by wet stones, crushed chalk and delicate herbs. With a little air, the wine gains increasing depth and expression. On the palate, it is precise and juicy, with a lively acidity that creates a sense of tension, whilst the fruit remains clear and cool. This is complemented by delicate herbal spice and a pronounced, chalky-mineral note. The wine possesses significantly more structure and body than a classic entry-level Riesling, yet remains astonishingly light-footed and inviting.

Stephan Reinhardt (The Wine Advocate) describes the wine as “bright, elegant, fresh and delicately spicy fruit with citrus and salty notes. Lean, elegant and juicy on the palate, with plenty of salt, a firm structure and lively citrus notes” and awards it 93 points. James Suckling calls it “a joyful and effusive dry Riesling” and awards it 95 points: “Brimming with yellow and citrus fruit plus spring flowers, wonderful succulence and very elegant acidity for a non-GG wine. There’s an excellent structure behind this that drives the wine off into the distance.” Julia Harding MW (JancisRobinson.com) awards 17/20 points and notes: “Subtle but distinctive lime, slate and slightly sulphurous nose; a wisp of smoke and matchstick. High acidity, of course, with a powdery mouthfeel and concentrated lime and grapefruit flavours. A little toastiness on the finish. Tangy and acid-driven but balanced.” CellarTracker users award an average of 91 points and describe the wine as “a beautiful Riesling, initially a little sweet, but developing fresh acidity quite quickly”.

Drinking window and food pairings

Stephan Reinhardt indicates that the drinking window spans from 2028 to 2045, whilst Julia Harding recommends starting from 2027. The wine is already very pleasant to drink now, but possesses sufficient acidity, structure and minerality to allow for further bottle ageing. As it matures, the primary fruit will recede somewhat and the wine will develop increasingly spicy, mineral and more complex notes. Its dry and mineral character makes it a versatile accompaniment to food – it pairs particularly well with fish, seafood, sushi, poultry, Asian cuisine and vegetable dishes.

A world-class wine

The ‘Von der Fels’ 2024 is a wine that bears the hallmark of one of the most significant winemakers of our time and impressively demonstrates the potential of Rheinhessen’s limestone-dominated vineyards. It combines the typical Keller precision with cool fruit, salty minerality, delicate herbal notes and great ageing potential. For lovers of great German Rieslings, it is an invitation to experience the essence of the Keller winery – and a wine produced in a vintage that once again ranks among the most outstanding of the decade.