Keller Winery – Dry Riesling ‘Von der Fels’ 2023

Keller Winery – Dry Riesling ‘Von der Fels’ 2023: The ‘little G-Max’ in a great vintage

The dry Riesling ‘Von der Fels’ 2023 from Keller Winery is far more than just a simple estate wine – it is perhaps the best introduction to the world of one of Germany’s greatest winemakers and is affectionately known amongst connoisseurs as the ‘little G-Max’. Produced in a vintage that once again yielded outstanding wines in Rheinhessen, it impressively embodies the estate’s philosophy: terroir-driven wines full of energy, elegance and sophistication.

The Winery: A Family at the Forefront of the World

The history of the Keller winery dates back to 1789. The real turning point came in 2001, when Klaus-Peter Keller took over the reins from his father. Together with his wife Julia, he led the winery to the very pinnacle of the global wine scene. The renowned wine critic Antonio Galloni described Klaus-Peter Keller as “the face of German viticulture”, and Stephan Reinhardt of The Wine Advocate wrote: “Klaus-Peter Keller is on his way to becoming yet another living German wine phenomenon”. The estate in Flörsheim-Dalsheim now comprises around 21 hectares of vineyards, of which some 85 per cent are classified as ‘Große Lagen’ – an exceptional proportion for Rheinhessen. The estate’s philosophy is remarkably simple yet uncompromising: “We are happy – but never satisfied,” says Klaus-Peter Keller. His aim is to capture the character of each individual vineyard in the bottle – terroir-driven wines brimming with energy, elegance and sophistication.

The vineyard: ‘Von der Fels’ – a wine that breathes limestone

The name ‘Von der Fels’ – meaning ‘from the rock’ – says it all: the wine comes from the estate’s top limestone-dominated sites around Flörsheim-Dalsheim and Westhofen. The blend for the 2023 vintage comprises 45 per cent Kirchspiel, 25 per cent Abtserde, 15 per cent Hubacker and 15 per cent Morstein – all of which are ‘Große Lagen’ plots with limestone-rich soils. Originally conceived as a cuvée made from grapes grown on young vines, the blend now increasingly incorporates grapes from more mature vines – the average age of the vines is now over 30 years. The result is a wine whose quality is drawing ever closer to the estate’s Grand Crus and which has been hailed by John Gilman as “stunning value”.

The 2023 vintage: A dry growing season

The 2023 vintage in Rheinhessen was characterised by good conditions and produced wines with remarkable clarity and structure. A forum participant on WineBerserkers aptly remarked: “Looks like 23 is a dry wine year!” . The “Von der Fels” 2023 boasts 12.5 per cent alcohol and the precision and minerality typical of the estate. Total acidity stands at 7.8 g/l. A total of around 32,000 bottles were bottled.

Tasting notes: precision, minerality and length

In the glass, the ‘Von der Fels’ 2023 appears pale yellow with greenish highlights, clear and brilliant. The nose is clean, fresh and mineral: notes of peach, citrus and yellow fruit, accompanied by herbs and a pronounced chalky, mineral note. With a little air, the wine gains increasing depth and expression. On the palate, it is precise and juicy, with a lively acidity that creates tension, whilst the fruit remains clear and cool. This is complemented by subtle herbal spice and a pronounced, chalky-mineral note. The wine possesses significantly more structure and body than a classic entry-level Riesling, yet remains astonishingly light-footed and inviting to drink.

Stephan Reinhardt (The Wine Advocate) describes the wine as “a super-precise, round and chalky, very refined and elegant Riesling of great style, characterised by razor-sharp precision, chalkiness and finesse” and awards it 92 points. Stuart Pigott (JamesSuckling.com) calls it “a joyful and effusive dry Riesling” and awards it 95 points: “Brimming with yellow and citrus fruit plus spring flowers, wonderful succulence and very elegant acidity for a non-GG wine. There’s an excellent structure behind this that carries the wine far into the distance”. Anne Krebiehl MW (Vinous) also awards 92 points and describes the wine as “a picture of energetic, joyful, swinging juiciness” with “a ton of lemon on the finish”. Julia Harding (JancisRobinson.com) awards 17/20 points and notes: “Remarkably creamy citrus and ripe green fruits, even a touch of preserved green fig. The initial gentleness becomes more piercing with air. On the palate, bright, driving freshness clothed in sweet citrus (though the wine is dry). This has depth and richness, balanced by extreme freshness right through the core of the wine. A young wine with great potential and full of joie de vivre”.

CellarTracker user Xavier Auerbach awarded 93 points and described the wine as “remarkably open and expressive in its extreme youth, with ripe citrus and greengage; crystalline purity, palpable limestone minerality, a hint of peach, real drive and energy, with the concentration and dry extract of a good GG, steely acidity enveloped in ripe lemon flesh; a complete finish, slightly yeasty, with very good length. A smiling baby, with everything in place for a very bright future”.

Drinking window and food pairings

The drinking window is indicated by the CellarTracker community as being from 2026 to 2035, whilst Julia Harding recommends starting from 2025. The wine is already very pleasant to drink, but possesses sufficient acidity, structure and mineral grip for further bottle ageing. As it ages, the primary fruit will recede somewhat and the wine will develop increasingly spicy, mineral and more complex notes. Its dry and mineral character makes it a versatile dining companion – it pairs particularly well with fish, seafood, sushi, poultry, Asian cuisine and vegetable dishes.

A world-class wine

The ‘Von der Fels’ 2023 is a wine that bears the hallmark of one of the most significant winemakers of our time and impressively demonstrates the potential of Rheinhessen’s limestone-dominated vineyards. It combines the typical Keller precision with cool fruit, salty minerality, delicate herbal notes and great ageing potential. For lovers of great German Rieslings, it is an invitation to experience the essence of the Keller winery – and a wine produced in a vintage that once again ranks among the most outstanding of the decade.