Keller Winery – Dry Riesling ‘Von der Fels’ 2019

Keller Winery – Dry Riesling ‘Von der Fels’ 2019: The ‘little G-Max’ from Rheinhessen

The dry Riesling ‘Von der Fels’ 2019 from Keller Winery is far more than just a simple estate wine – it is perhaps the best introduction to the world of one of Germany’s greatest winemakers and is affectionately known amongst connoisseurs as the ‘little G-Max’. Produced in a vintage that ranks among the finest of the decade in the Ahr and Rheinhessen regions, it impressively embodies the estate’s philosophy: terroir-driven wines characterised by energy, elegance and sophistication.

The winery: A family making German wine history

The history of the Keller winery dates back to 1789, when Johann Leonhard Keller – unsettled by the events of the French Revolution – purchased a house in the village of Dalsheim near the picturesque church and turned his hand to farming and viticulture. The family remained connected to viticulture for generations, but the real turning point came in 2001, when Klaus-Peter Keller took over the management from his father. Together with his wife Julia, he led the winery to the very pinnacle of the global wine scene. The renowned wine critic Antonio Galloni described Klaus-Peter Keller as “the face of German viticulture”, and Stephan Reinhardt of *The Wine Advocate* wrote: “Klaus-Peter Keller is on his way to becoming yet another living German wine phenomenon”.

The estate in Flörsheim-Dalsheim now comprises around 21 hectares of vineyards, of which some 85 per cent are classified as ‘Grosse Lage’ (Grand Cru) – an exceptional proportion for Rheinhessen. 70 per cent of the vineyard is planted with Riesling, complemented by Burgundy varieties, Silvaner, Rieslaner and Scheurebe. The estate’s philosophy is remarkably simple yet uncompromising: “We are happy – but never satisfied,” says Klaus-Peter Keller. His aim is to capture the character of each individual vineyard in the bottle – terroir-driven wines brimming with energy, elegance and sophistication. The vineyards are managed sustainably, and the family relies on a combination of tradition and innovation: “We are very open to anything that can be improved. Where it makes sense, we naturally hold on to traditions too.”

The vineyard: ‘Von der Fels’ – a wine that breathes limestone

The name “Von der Fels” – meaning “from the rock” in German – says it all: the wine comes from the estate’s top limestone-dominated sites around Flörsheim-Dalsheim and Westhofen, particularly from the ‘Große Lagen’ plots of Kirchspiel and Frauenberg. Originally conceived as a cuvée made from grapes grown on young vines, the blend now increasingly incorporates grapes from more mature vines – the average age of the vines is now around 30 years. The result is a wine that is coming ever closer in quality to the estate’s Grosse Gewächse and has been hailed by John Gilman as “stunning value”.

The 2019 vintage: precision, minerality and length

The 2019 vintage was characterised by favourable conditions in Rheinhessen and produced wines of remarkable clarity and structure. The ‘Von der Fels’ 2019 has an alcohol content of 12.5 per cent and displays the precision and minerality typical of the estate. John Gilman (View From The Cellar) awarded it 93 points and described the wine as ‘truly stunning’: “The bouquet is precise, complex and vibrant; it rises from the glass as a blend of tart orange, pink grapefruit, kaleidoscopic chalky minerality, lemongrass, citrus zest, a hint of wild yeast and a top note of dried flowers. On the palate, the wine is deep, pure, full-bodied and racy, with a magnificent core of fruit, outstanding mineral drive and grip, embedded, racy acidity and absolutely perfect balance on the long and youthfully complex finish.” Gilman emphasised that although the wine does not quite possess the power of the Grands Crus, it comes close to the quality of the estate’s GG bottlings, which he had first tasted in 2005 and 2006.

Michael Schmidt (JancisRobinson.com) awarded 18/20 points and wrote: “A wine to inhale. A composition of green mint, sage and chalk that would refresh even the most jaded sense of smell. Crystal-clear and fresh on the palate, with a fascinating hint of tropical fruit, sweet lemon, healthy acidity and a chalky, mineral finish. Has not yet reached its full potential.” The drinking window was given as 2021 to 2034.

CellarTracker user Arsene Wengert awarded 93 points and noted: “An intense and very lovely aroma of candied lemon, yellow grapefruit, beeswax, a hint of smoke and white stone. Very clear, slender and vertical, yet dense and thoroughly aromatic, full of energy and with good drive. Great, ripe and persistent acidity. Peach, plenty of citrus, a hint of wet grey stone, a touch of yellow spice, very good length. Mouth-watering.” Another tasting note on CellarTracker describes the wine as initially “very waxy, almost petrol-like on the nose, not much definition, but the palate is clearly very energetic, with crisp acidity. Feels a bit unformed. Much better on the second day.”

A world-class wine

The ‘Von der Fels’ 2019 is a wine that bears the hallmark of one of the most significant winemakers of our time and impressively demonstrates the potential of Rheinhessen’s limestone-dominated vineyards. It combines the typical Keller precision with cool fruit, salty minerality, delicate herbal spice and great ageing potential. For lovers of great German Rieslings, it is an invitation to experience the essence of the Keller winery – and a wine produced in a vintage that ranks among the most outstanding of the decade.