Keller Winery – AbtsE Dry Riesling Grosses Gewächs GG 2023

Keller Winery – AbtsE Dry Riesling Grosses Gewächs GG 2023

1. Introduction and Background

The AbtsE Riesling dry Grosses Gewächs 2023 from Weingut Keller is one of the most prestigious and sought-after dry Rieslings from Germany. Under the leadership of Klaus-Peter Keller (since 2001) and, increasingly, his son Felix, Weingut Keller in Rheinhessen has become a global benchmark for dry Riesling, producing some of the most sought-after wines in Germany and beyond.

The name ‘Abts E®’ is a play on words based on the vineyard name Abtserde – a plot within the larger Westhofener Brunnenhäuschen vineyard. The plot, covering around 2.5 hectares, lies on pure limestone soil with a touch of marl and is regarded as one of the estate’s finest and most precise terroirs.

2. 2023 vintage

The 2023 vintage is rated by connoisseurs as exceptionally great – comparable to the legendary vintages of 2019, 2007 or 2001. Klaus-Peter Keller himself attributed the high quality to “outstanding teamwork and excellent conditions during the growing season”. The abundant rainfall in the second half of the summer proved ideal for the famous vineyards, which in dry years often suffer from drought stress.

The vines used for this wine are between 22 and 45 years old. In the cellar , spontaneous fermentation and patient, restrained ageing are employed, with clarity taking precedence over embellishment.

3. Tasting notes and aroma profile

The wine has received impressive reviews from the trade:

Stephan Reinhardt (Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate – 98–100 points)
describes the wine as “incredibly pure, deep and intense on the nose, concentrated and chalky, with salty and lemony notes”. On the palate, it is “full-bodied, pure, fresh and salty, a highly complex and restrained Riesling with a very intense, aromatic and structured finish”.

Stuart Pigott (JamesSuckling.com – 100 points)
speaks of “mineral magic! Incredibly concentrated, yet also incredibly elegant and refined on the medium-bodied palate”. When swirled in the glass, the various aromatic dimensions revealed themselves – “stone fruit, citrus, fresh herbs and chalk dust” – one after the other. The finish is described as “incredibly long, pure and stony”.

Anne Krebiehl MW (Vinous – 97 points)
highlights its “slimness, brightness, freshness and limestone coolness”. Underlying these are “salt, stone and enormous juiciness”. The wine is “radiant and pure”.

Mosel Fine Wines (96 points)
describes a “wonderfully spicy and floral bouquet of lily blossoms, grapefruit peel, lime, delicate spices, herbal tea, spearmint, white peach, ginger and fresh almond”. The nose is described as “superb, pure and intense”.

Julia Harding MW (JancisRobinson.com – 18/20 points)
highlights the “perfect contrast between crisp acidity and a rounded, deep fullness on the palate” as well as “immense power, depth and length” with an “ice-cold finish”.

4. Technical details

5. Reviews at a glance

6. Recommended drinking window

The experts agree that this wine has enormous ageing potential. The recommended drinking windows vary:

• Stephan Reinhardt: 2025–2070

• Anne Krebiehl MW: 2028–2060

• Mosel Fine Wines: 2033–2053

• Stuart Pigott: “Drink from release”

The wine is currently still in a very youthful phase and is described by some critics as still rather ‘closed’ or showing ‘reduction’ – a sign of enormous potential for development.

7. Price and availability

The AbtsE GG 2023 is one of Germany’s most expensive Rieslings. Prices vary depending on the retailer and market:

Due to limited production and high demand, the wine is already sold outin many places .

8. Summary

The Keller AbtsE Riesling dry Grosses Gewächs GG 2023 is an exceptional wine that has been awarded top marks (up to 100 points) by specialist critics. It combines impressive concentration with great elegance, a complex range of aromas from citrus and stone fruit to mineral chalk and salt notes, as well as enormous ageing potential spanning several decades.

The Abtserde vineyard on calcareous soil, the vines which are up to 45 years old and the meticulous winemaking make this wine one of the finest dry Rieslings in its class – and one of Germany’s most sought-after collectors’ wines. For lovers of great Rieslings, the AbtsE GG 2023 is an absolute must-have, though it does come at a price and is difficult to get hold of.