Julian Haart – Schubertslay Riesling Kabinett 2017

Julian Haart – Piesporter Schubertslay Riesling Kabinett 2017

1. Introduction

The 2017 Julian Haart Piesporter Schubertslay Riesling Kabinett is an outstanding example of the new generation of Mosel wines. Julian Haart, who founded his eponymous winery in Piesport in 2010, is now among Germany’s most talented and visionary Riesling producers . Trained by the living legends Egon Müller and Klaus-Peter Keller, Haart combines artisanal precision with a purist expression of terroir in his wines.

2. The Schubertslay vineyard

The Schubertslay is one of the most prestigious vineyards in the Middle Mosel. It forms a short break between two sections of the famous ‘Großlage’ Piesporter Goldtröpfchen and owes its status as an independent single vineyard to the German Wine Act of 1971.

Special features of the vineyard:

• Centuries-old, ungrafted vines – a whole hectare of ungrafted vines over 100 years old

• Steep slate terraces with gradients of 60 to 80 per cent

• Organic cultivation with extremely low yields; grapes are harvested by hand on the steep slopes

• The oldest documented plantings in the Schubertslay date backto 1902

Julian Haart cultivated 0.7 hectares of vineyards in the Schubertslay, which he had been leasing from the Vereinigte Hospitien since 2011.

3. The 2017 vintage

The 2017 vintage on the Moselle produced wines that captivate with their precision and character. Haart’s Schubertslay Kabinett 2017 is described by connoisseurs as a wine that captures the ethereal delicacy of the Mosel – with a balance of fine residual sweetness, lively acidity and mineral depth.

4. Tasting notes

The tasting notes paint a striking picture of this wine:

Nose:

• Intense minerality with crushed stone and slate

• Lime, citrus fruits and sweet floral notes

Palate:

• Soft texture with flavours of peach, apple and lemon

• Sweet, subtle floral notes

• Refreshing acidity that gives the wine an elegant and precise finish

Finish:

• A clean finish with lingering notes ofripe peach and citrus zest

One taster described the wine as a ‘stunning Kabinett’ and ‘racy and precise’ – less focused on power, but all the more on elegance and finesse. The residual sweetness is superbly integrated and by no means intrusive.

5. A special chapter: the change of ownership in 2018

A remarkable feature of this wine is its unique status as the final vintage produced under Haart’s stewardship. In December 2017, it was announced that Julian Haart was handing over the Schubertslay to his mentor, Klaus-Peter Keller. In return, Haart gained access to Keller’s Frauenberg vineyard in Rheinhessen.

Keller himself described the Schubertslay as “one of the finest vineyards in the Middle Mosel”. The Prussian tax authorities had already classified the site as a top-class terroir 150 years ago .

The 2017 vintage thus marks the end of Haart’s Schubertslay era – a wine that was produced exclusively under his label and has since been carried on by Keller.

6. Rating and Classification

The 2017 Julian Haart Schubertslay Riesling Kabinett is highly regarded by critics and collectors alike:

Julian Haart’s wines are widely praisedfor their lively minerality, their bright citrus profile and their complexity combined with elegance. Haart’s Kabinett bottlings capture the ‘ethereal delicacy of the Mosel’ and are amongst the finest produced by the new generation on the Mosel.

7. Conclusion

The 2017 Julian Haart Piesporter Schubertslay Riesling Kabinett is more than just an excellent Mosel Riesling – it is a testament to a vineyard in transition. As the last vintage that Julian Haart pressed from this legendary site with its 100-year-old vines, it combines artisanal skill, magnificent terroir and a unique viticultural history. For lovers of mineral, elegant Rieslings, this wine is an indispensable part of Mosel culture.