Julian Haart Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Kabinett ‘Alte Reben’ 2017 – A still masterpiece from the Moselle
In the world of German Riesling, there are wines that go far beyond the status of a mere drink. They are the result of a centuries-old winemaking tradition, a unique terroir and the visionary touch of a winemaker who lives out his calling with uncompromising dedication. The Julian Haart Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Kabinett ‘Alte Reben’ from the 2017 vintage is one such wine. It comes from the heart of the Moselle, more precisely from the village of Wintrich on the Middle Moselle, and is the product of one of the region’s oldest winemaking families: The Haart family has been documented as practising viticulture in Piesport since 1337, making them one of the oldest winemaking dynasties on the Moselle. Julian Haart, who actually began his career as a chef, only founded his own small winery in 2010, having learnt his craft from the very best – at Emrich-Schönleber on the Nahe, Heymann-Löwenstein on the Moselle and Klaus-Peter Keller in Rheinhessen. This unusual background – the combination of culinary craftsmanship and oenological precision – continues to shape his style to this day: his wines are not loud, brash powerhouses, but delicate, precise and profound wines that embody the very soul of their terroir.
The terroir: Wintricher Ohligsberg – a vineyard of historic significance
At the heart of the wine discussed here lies the Wintricher Ohligsbergvineyard , one of the most renowned and historically significant vineyard sites on the Moselle. As early as the 19th century, the Ohligsberg was counted amongst the region’s top vineyards, and its wines often fetched the highest prices at auctions. The vineyard stretches across an extremely steep, west to south-west facing slope with a gradient of up to 80 per cent – a terroir that is exceptional even by Mosel standards and demands the utmost from the winegrowers in terms of cultivation. The soil in which the vines take root here is a grey-blue, heavily weathered Devonian slate, interspersed with veins of quartzite and containing patches of iron-rich deposits that give it a reddish to purplish hue. This barren, mineral-rich and well-drained geology forces the vines to develop deep roots and imparts to the wines their distinctive, salty minerality, their smoky depth and their tremendous tension. The late west-facing aspect means that the grapes can benefit from the warm autumn sun well into October – a characteristic that was invaluable in cooler vintages such as 2017 for achieving full physiological ripeness whilst retaining brilliant acidity.
What makes the ‘Alte Reben’ bottling so special is the origin of the grapes: They come from ungrafted vines over 90 years old, planted in 1925 and sourced from a specific plot at the foot of the hill as well as slightly further up in the Rondelbach side valley. These old, deep-rooted vines naturally produce significantly lower yields and smaller berries, resulting in an exceptional concentration of aromas, minerals and extract in the grapes. The wines from these old vines are characterised by an additional dimension of depth, complexity and texture, which clearly sets them apart from the wines made from the younger vines in the same vineyard.
The 2017 vintage: A year of precision and acidity
The 2017wine-growing year on the Moselle was a vintage of contrasts, demanding immense patience and precision from many winegrowers. Following a generally warm spring and a changeable summer characterised by cooler spells and rainfall, a dry and sunny autumn followed, allowing the grapes to ripen slowly and evenly. The cool autumn nights ensured that the grapes retained their natural acidity, whilst the warm days ensured sufficient physiological ripeness. The harvest spanned a longer period, giving the winegrowers the opportunity to harvest the plots selectively and use only the best and healthiest grapes for the top wines. The 2017 vintage produced wines on the Mosel characterised by great clarity, precise fruit and a remarkably lively, supportive acidity – qualities that made it ideally suited to a Kabinett from old vines. The wines are more approachable and fruit-driven than the austere, acidity-driven vintages such as 2010 or 2013, yet still possess the structure and longevity characteristic of great Mosel Rieslings.
Winemaking: Minimalism in the service of the terroir
Wine-making at Julian Haart follows a philosophy of uncompromising minimalism. The grapes are harvested exclusively by hand and rigorously selected in the vineyard to ensure only the healthiest and most aromatic berries are used. In the cellar, the grapes are gently pressed, and fermentation takes place – as is typical for the Mosel – spontaneously using the natural yeasts from the grapes and the cellar. Ageing takes place in large, old wooden barrels, which lend the wine a subtle texture and complexity without masking the fruit or minerality. This careful, patient work in the cellar is the estate’s hallmark and the key to the exceptional balance and longevity of its wines. The finished wine is bottled unfiltered to preserve its authentic character and natural stability. The alcohol content is a moderate 7.5 per cent – a figure typical of a Kabinett from the Mosel and one that lends the wine its lightness and elegance.
The sensory experience: a burst of fruit, minerality and vibrancy
Tasting a bottle of the Julian Haart Ohligsberg Kabinett ‘Alte Reben’ 2017 today is an experience of rare intensity and complexity. The tasting notes compiled by collectors and critics since bottling paint a picture of a wine that has transformed the extremes of its vintage and terroir into a remarkable harmony.
The nose is the first major highlight of this wine. It is intense and multi-layered, characterised by a ripe yet vibrant fruitiness. Aromas of lemon, white flowers and peach dominate the initial impression, underpinned by a subtle yet unmistakable mineral note reminiscent of damp slate and flint. An experienced taster described the nose as ‘intense with lemon, dried flowers, peach and a slight cheesy note’ – a nuance typical of great, mature Rieslings, which bears witness to yeast ageing and the onset of maturity. With a little air in the glass , aromas of grapefruit, green apple and a hint of gooseberry emerge, lending the bouquet an invigorating freshness.
On the palate, the true greatness of this wine unfolds. The attack is powerful and dense, with a wealth of flavours that envelop the palate. The texture is silky and creamy, almost oily, yet the wine is permeated by an electrifying, lively acidity that prevents it from feeling heavy and lends it remarkable freshness and length. One taster described this combination of ‘powerful acidity’ and the ‘dry, extract-driven character’ as ‘like an electric shock’, highlighting the wine’s ‘long, taut structure and spirited drive’. The aromas on the nose are echoed on the palate with great precision: citrus fruits, peach, grapefruit and green apple blend with a delicate mineral salinity and a spicy herbal note to form a harmonious whole. The finish is exceptionally long and lingering, with a clean aftertaste of fruit, minerality and a subtle, slightly tart note reminiscent of fresh herbs.
The reviews: A chorus of enthusiasm
The reviews for the Julian Haart Ohligsberg Kabinett ‘Alte Reben’ 2017 reflect its exceptional quality and its ability to delight even seasoned critics. The CellarTrackerplatform , where collectors and professionals share their tasting notes, lists ratings for this wine ranging from 94+ to 98+ points. One particularly enthusiastic note describes the wine as ‘crazy beautiful’ and a ‘mind-blowing wine’, showcasing the full spectrum of fruit, with superb acidity and complex, deep aromas of citrus zest, grapefruit, green apple and peach, as well as a long finish. The taster noted that this wine was his favourite at present, but suggested that the 2019 and 2021 vintages might yet surpass it in the future – a sign of the enormous potential and the high standard set by this 2017 vintage.
Another reviewer on CellarTracker praised the wine’sjuiciness and complexity, whilst at the same time wishing for “a little more minerality for added tension” and predicting that the juicy fruit would settle down with a few more years, after which the wine would be “excellent”. This somewhat more critical comment underlines that, despite its immediate approachability, the wine still has considerable potential for development and can benefit from further bottle ageing. The professional critics at Mosel Fine Wines reviewed the wine in their 2017 vintage report (Issue #41) and awarded it a high rating, which underlines its standing amongst the vintage’s top wines. The fact that the wine is causing such a stir amongst collectors and connoisseurs is a clear sign of its exceptional quality.
Ageing potential and drinking maturity: A wine for the coming decades
The Julian Haart Ohligsberg Kabinett ‘Alte Reben’ 2017 is currently, almost a decade after the harvest, in a fascinating transitional phase. The initial youthful reserve, which was characteristic of many Mosel Rieslings from the 2017 vintage, has given way to an unfolding complexity. The fruit has become more pronounced and accessible, the acidity is better integrated, and the mineral notes are coming to the fore more clearly. The wine has begun to unfold its enormous potential and is at the start of a long drinking window which – with perfect storage – is likely to extend for many years, indeed decades. The structure of the 2017 vintage – the combination of concentrated fruit, lively acidity and mineral depth – suggests that this wine will continue to be a delight to drink well into the 2030s and beyond. The serving recommendation is clear: The wine should be served at a temperature of 8 to 10 degrees Celsius to bring out its delicate aromas and lively acidity to the full. It is a perfect accompaniment to delicate fish dishes, seafood, white meat and Asian cuisine, but also with mature hard cheeses – and it is a wine that deserves to be savoured on its own and in quiet contemplation, as a meditation on the passage of time and the enduring power of a great terroir.
Conclusion: The quiet grandeur of an exceptional wine
The Julian Haart Wintricher Ohligsberg Riesling Kabinett ‘Alte Reben’ 2017 is not a wine that stands in the limelight. It is not a ‘Große Lage’ in the VDP sense, fetching record prices at auctions, nor is it hailed as a legend in every wine magazine. And yet it embodies a virtue that is often overlooked in today’s wine world: the quiet, enduring greatness of a wine born of an excellent vintage, an exceptional terroir and the steadfast craftsmanship of a passionate winemaker. It is the result of a fortunate combination of old, ungrafted vines that have been rooted in the steep slate slopes of the Ohligsberg for almost a century, a vintage which perfectly balanced precision and acidity, and the uncompromising dedication of Julian Haart, who crafts his wines with the same passion and attention to detail as he once did as a chef. It reminds us that true class is not always expressed through spectacular opulence or a famous name, but often through the ability to develop a distinct, subtle and deeply satisfying character in the face of challenges. His greatness lies in his modesty – a quiet triumph of consistency and a worthy ambassador for the Moselle, the Ohligsberg and the old vines that give him his soul.
