J. J. Prüm – Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 1970

J. J. Prüm – Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 1970

1. Introduction

The 1970 Joh. Jos. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett is further proof of the exceptional ageing potential of the great Mosel Rieslings. The Joh. Jos. Prüm winery and the Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard form one of the most renowned combinations in the German wine world. The 1970 vintage is now a sought-after rarity that arouses great interest among collectors and connoisseurs.

2. The J. J. Prüm Winery

The Joh. Jos. Prüm winery in Bernkastel-Wehlen on the Middle Mosel was not established until 1911, when the vineyards – which had been cultivated by the Prüm family since the 17th century – were divided between two grandsons. The other part of the estate still operates today under the name S. A. Prüm.

Since 1969, the estate has been run by Dr Manfred Prüm. The winery cultivates around 20 hectares of vineyards, planted exclusively with Riesling, and holds shares in several ‘Erste Lagen’ (Premier Cru) sites, including the Wehlener Sonnenuhr, the Graacher Himmelreich, the Badstube in Bernkastel and the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr.

3. The Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard

The Wehlener Sonnenuhr is a steep, south-facing premier vineyard with slopes of up to 100 per cent. The soil consists of deep, weathered blue-grey slate, which lends the Rieslings a distinctive mineral character. Some of the vines grow around exposed rock outcrops, which underlines the extreme conditions of this vineyard. The sundial that gives the vineyard its name was erectedin 1842 by Jodocus Prüm; the vineyard has borne this name since the early 20th century.

4. The 1970 vintage

The 1970 vintage is regarded by connoisseurs as a classic Mosel vintage . Today, more than five decades on, the wines from this vintage display impressive maturity and complexity. The grapes for the Kabinett come from vines aged between 70 and 90 years, which explains the wine’s exceptional depth and structure.

5. Tasting notes

A detailed tasting of a half-bottle (Mission Fine Wines, 2013) describes the wine as follows:

Colour: Slightly cloudy appearance, the colour of mature gold

Nose: Initially simple, nutty and slightly sweet aromas, which quickly unfold into a complex and well-rounded bouquet. Notes of pecan pancakes, cinnamon bread, maple syrup and apples at all stages of ripeness

Palate: The acidity is impressively lively (M+) and wonderfully cuts through the residual sweetness, refreshing the palate and making you look forward to the next sip. The balance between the fruitiness and the residual acidity is impeccable. Over time, the aromas evolve from apple juice through to apple cider, apple compote and apple pie filling. A signature hint of petrol is woven through, yet the wine remains entirely true to its bakery and baking spice profile.

Overall impression: So harmonious and perfect that , whilst savouring it, you feel like a child on a farm on a cool autumn’s day, enjoying sugar doughnuts and apple cider.

6. Price and availability

The 1970 J. J. Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett is now extremely rare and commands prices to match:

Prices vary considerably depending on origin, condition (level of wine, label, capsule) and auction house. The wine is generally only availablethrough auction houses or specialist fine-wine merchants.

7. Conclusion

The J. J. Prüm – Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett 1970 is an outstanding example of the exceptional longevity and complex development of great Mosel Rieslings. The combination of one of the world’s finest Riesling estates, one of the most famous vineyards and a mature vintage makes this wine a highly sought-after collector’s item. With its golden-yellow colour, complex baked goods aromas and impressively lively acidity ,it offers a unique tasting experience reminiscent of an autumnal visit to a farm.

For connoisseurs and collectors ,this is a wine of historic stature, which embodies the art of Mosel Riesling winemaking in its purest form and, even after more than five decades, has lost none of its allure.