Gantenbein Pinot Noir 2013

Gantenbein Pinot Noir 2013: A ‘vintage of the century’ with rough edges

The Gantenbein Pinot Noir 2013 comes from a highly unusual vintage. Late spring frosts drastically reduced the potential yield – depending on the plot , the harvest was70 to 75 per cent lower, and the remaining berries were smaller than peas. What initially seemed like a disaster turned out to be a blessing for the cult winery in Fläsch: the few, concentrated grapes produced a wine of rare density and complexity, which is regarded by experts as the ‘vintage of the century’.

The Falstaff rating is euphoric: 95 points (later, in a second tasting, even 96 points). The tasting note describes a “rich, luminous red” with a “wonderful, spicy bouquet” of the finest woody notes, red berries, cherries and toasted aromas. On the palate , the wine displays “enormous concentration without any heaviness”, compact, velvety tannins, well-balanced acidity and a “wonderful fruit sweetness” – a “breathtaking wine from an atypical vintage” with “enormous length”.

Robert Parker awarded 93/100 points and highlighted the distinctive winemaking technique: the cap was never punched down; instead, two délestage operations were carried out during the 14-day cuvaison. Parker describes the nose as deep, ripe and intense, spicy and peppery, and concentrated; on the palate, it reveals a “pure, fresh and densely woven, yet crystalline Pinot” with a long, structured and slightly salty finish – a “fascinating 2013”.

Yet the enthusiasm is not unanimous. CellarTracker comments paint a more nuanced picture: whilst some reviewers rank the wine amongst the best vintages with 94 points in the vertical ranking, others criticise an overly dominant oak note and an overly extracted style. One user awarded just 90 points and judged the wine to be “far too young” and, compared to other Burgundies tasted that evening, “not nearly as great”. Another describes it as “incredibly youthful” with “enormous density and depth”, but with oak that “dominates too much of the experience” – and speculates that only “another twenty years might reveal something special beneath”.

On the auction market, the 2013 vintage is fetching solid prices: a case of six was offered at Sotheby’s with an estimate of 850 to 1,200 GBP. Individual bottles changed hands at Sylvies for 190 euros (234 euros including commission), whilst at wineauction.ch the price per bottle stands at 230 CHF. In specialist shops, prices range from220 to 265 CHF, depending on the source .

All in all, the 2013 Gantenbein Pinot Noir is a fascinating wine from an extreme vintage: highly praised by the leading critics, controversial amongst its fans, and certainly still a long way from reaching its optimal drinking maturity. Those with patience who appreciate the estate’s stylistic approach will find themselves holding one of the most exciting bottles in Swiss wine history.