Château Mouton Rothschild 1987

Château Mouton Rothschild 1987 – A quiet legacy marked by transition

In the illustrious history of Château Mouton Rothschild, marked by monumental vintages such as 1945, 1959, 1982 and 1986, the year 1987 occupies a very special, indeed almost intimate, place. It is not a wine that rivals the sheer power and opulence of its legendary counterparts. Rather, it is a quiet, moving testament to a transition – the end of one era and the beginning of another. The 1987 Mouton is the last vintage produced under the aegis of Baron Philippe de Rothschild, the visionary patriarch who had shaped the estate over decades and led it to world fame. Baron Philippe passed away in January 1988, and so this wine, produced under his guidance, is a final liquid legacy of a man who revolutionised 20th-century Bordeaux winemaking like no other. The label, designed by the Swiss artist Hans Erni, also bears a moving dedication from Baroness Philippine de Rothschild to her father. Opening a bottle of this wine is therefore no ordinary tasting, but a journey into a moment of farewell and new beginnings.

The 1987 vintage: a year of extremes and last-minute salvation

The 1987 wine-growing year in Bordeaux was a climatic rollercoaster ride that presented the winegrowers with immense challenges and ultimately produced a wine that – given the adverse circumstances – is remarkably successful. The official records of Château Mouton Rothschild describe the winter as exceptionally harsh: January was characterised by freezing temperatures and more than a week of snow, followed by a cold but very dry February and March, which allowed the vines a well-deserved period of rest. Budbreak did not begin until mid-April – on the 14th for Merlot and Cabernet Franc, and on the 16th for Cabernet Sauvignon. June was overcast and rainy, and the flowering period, which lasted for almost three weeks, suffered from coulure and millerandage, leading to uneven fruit set. The summer was warm and humid, which encouraged the spread of diseases; however, these were kept under control through preventative treatments.

The decisive turning point came in September, which is described as fine and unusually warm, allowing the vines to develop well, even though ripening was slow and gradual. But nature was not yet satisfied: at the end of September and beginning of October, the rain returned, and the harvest, which lasted from 5 to 15 October, took place under unstable conditions. During this critical phase, the winery demonstrated technical innovation: The use of a helicopter to dry the vines proved an effective measure to protect the grapes from excessive moisture and save the harvest. This unusual method underlines the uncompromising commitment with which Mouton fought for quality, even in difficult years.

The blend and sensory profile: a Mouton of understated elegance

The blend of the 1987 Mouton is a clear commitment to the classic Pauillac tradition and, at the same time, a reflection of the challenges of the vintage. It consists of 85 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon, 8 per cent Merlot and 7 per cent Cabernet Franc. The overwhelming proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon lends the wine its structured, aromatic character and its ability to retain a certain depth and longevity even in a less powerful vintage.

The Château’s official tasting note describes the wine with remarkable clarity and poetry. The colour is described as a deep red with an orange rim, a sign of incipient maturity. The nose reveals notes of wax and fruit, particularly raspberry and cherry, underpinned by aromas of humus and leather. This blend of red fruit and earthy, leathery nuances is typical of a mature Pauillac and lends the wine an inviting, approachable complexity. On the palate, the attack is elegant and retains a certain freshness. Vanilla is present, the tannins are well-integrated, and the texture is described as silky. Finally, the finish is characterised by ripe fruit and spicy aromas. This description paints a picture of a wine that does not captivate with monumental power, but rather with balance, harmony and a silky elegance – virtues that are all the more commendable in a challenging vintage.

The reviews: a nuanced picture from the critics

The ratings for the 1987 Mouton reflect the ambivalence with which this vintage is often viewed, whilst also showing that the wine occupies a leading position within its vintage. Falstaff awarded the wine 88 points in 2006 . In his tasting note, he describes a well-covered ruby-garnet colour with violet highlights, a nose of damp bread, a slightly earthy spice and dried fruit, and on the palate a fresh note of plum with firm but still lively tannins and a dry finish. A tasting from a magnum bottle in the same year revealed a slightly different picture: with a delicate leafy undertone, hints of cream and caramel; on the palate, a delicate sweetness reminiscent of roasted plums and fine, rather subtle tannins – a rather dainty Mouton with ripe aromas lingering on the finish.

The renowned wine critic Serena Sutcliffe MW of Sotheby’s described the wine as “Very alluring scent – a real surprise. Soft, chocolatey, fresh. Wet leaves finish. Very creditable for the year. Melts in the mouth.” This description highlights the wine’s surprising allure and its soft, melting texture, and emphasises that it represents a remarkable achievement given the conditions of 1987. Other sources go even further: *The Wine Cellar Insider* describes the 1987 Mouton as “one of the deepest and most opaque wines of the vintage” with a dense, promising bouquet of cedar and blackcurrants, surprising depth, medium to full body and abundant tannins on the finish. Finally, the Sokolin merchant raves that it is ‘the finest 1987 Médoc I have ever tasted’, with aromas of red berries, spices, coffee, eucalyptus and a hint of walnut, as well as Mouton’s traditional, beautifully toasted new oak. This range of reviews – from 88 Falstaff points to effusive praise – makes it clear that the 1987 Mouton is a wine that, depending on the bottle, storage and personal taste, but is undoubtedly one of the finest within its vintage.

The 1987 art label: Hans Erni and the Baron’s legacy

A distinctive feature of every bottle of Mouton is the annually changing art label, a tradition established by Baron Philippe de Rothschild in 1945. For the 1987 vintage , the Swiss artist Hans Erni (1909–2015)was chosen, a leading figure in abstract and figurative painting. Erni created an allegorical portrait celebrating the creative energy of Baron Philippe de Rothschild. The work depicts the Baron surrounded by grapes and ram’s horns – the symbol of the estate – whilst the golden background is interpreted as a symbol of his fame and good fortune. The label also bears a moving dedication from Baroness Philippine de Rothschild to her father, lending a personal, emotional dimension to this final vintage produced under his leadership. During this decade, labels were also designed by artists such as Keith Haring (1988) and others, but the 1987 Erni label holds a special place due to its historical significance.

Ageing potential and drinking maturity: a wine that tells its story

The question of when the 1987 Mouton is ready to drink is of particular significance today, almost four decades after the harvest. The wine has undoubtedly shed its youthful austerity and is now in a phase of maturity that is assessed differently by various commentators. Whilst some sources attributed a ageing potential of 10 to 15 years to it – a figure referring to the period around the turn of the millennium – later tasting notes show that the wine remained drinkable even after that and that its aromas have continued to develop. The 2006 Falstaff note describes it as ‘still lively’, whilst the 2020 Sotheby’s note highlights its ‘melting’ texture and ‘surprising’ character. The wine is no longer a candidate for decades of ageing, but rather one created to be enjoyed in the present and the near future – a wine that tells its story whilst retaining its remarkable balance and the elegance typical of the vintage.

The serving recommendation is clear: the wine should be served at a temperature of 16 to 17 degrees Celsius to bring out its delicate aromas and structure to the full. Gently decanting the wine some 30 to 45 minutes before drinking can help to open up the complex aromas and separate any sediment. It is a perfect accompaniment to hearty meat dishes such as leg of lamb, beef fillet or braised game, as well as mature hard cheeses such as Comté or Cantal.

Conclusion: The quiet greatness of a transitional vintage

The 1987 Château Mouton Rothschild is not a wine that takes centre stage. It is not a monumental powerhouse like the 1982 or the 1986, and it is not hailed as a legend in the major wine magazines. And yet it embodies a virtue that is often overlooked in today’s wine world: the quiet, enduring greatness of a wine that emerged from a difficult vintage and has developed into a remarkable harmony over the decades. It is the result of a fortunate combination of an exceptional terroir, the steadfast craftsmanship of a great estate and a patience that has paid off. Above all, however, it is a historical document: the last vintage produced under Baron Philippe de Rothschild, a liquid legacy of a visionary whose legacy lives on in every bottle. Tasting a bottle of this wine is not an act of consumption, but a tribute to time, transience and the enduring fascination of Bordeaux. Its greatness lies in its modesty – a quiet triumph of consistency and a worthy ambassador for the House of Mouton Rothschild.