Biondi Santi – Brunello di Montalcino ‘Il Greppo’ Riserva 1998
A wine of extremes – a living testament to the art of Italian winemaking
1. Introduction & historical significance
The Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva “Il Greppo” 1998
is far more than just an old red wine. It is the epitome of the
classic Brunello, capable of ageing for decades, and a living
piece of Italian wine history. Whilst many wines from the
famous 1997 vintage have already reached the peak of their maturity or are
on the decline, the 1998 Riservais right in that magical drinking window where wild, youthful vigour and complex, tertiary finesse are in perfect balance.
As the Biondi-Santi family produces its Riserva
only in truly exceptional vintages (such as 1888, 1891, 1925, 1945, 1955,
1964, 1975, 1983, 1995, 1999, 2001, 2004, 2006, 2010, 2015 – and, indeed, 1998), this bottle is a rare stroke of luck for collectors and connoisseurs. The 1998 vintage was not released until 2004
after nearly six years of ageing (including three years in oak)
and has now, in 2026, fully come into its own
.
2. The estate: The pioneers of Brunello
The Il Greppoestate in Montalcino is the birthplace of Brunello di Montalcino. At the end of the 19th century, Ferruccio Biondi Santi
first selected a local variety of
Sangiovese, which he named ‘Sangiovese Grosso’due to its particularly large, loose bunches – the Biondi-Santi clone known worldwide today .
The
estate’s philosophy is uncompromisingly traditional: no barriques
(French oak), no addition of international grape varieties, no
fining agents, no filtration. The wines are intended to reflect the terroir of the
limestone-rich, stony hills of Il Greppo in its purest form.
This purist, almost ascetic approach often results in young
vintages having harsh, austere tannins – yet these are the
sole guarantee of the outstanding ageing potential of these wines, which often
only reach their peak after 20 to 30 years.
3. The 1998 vintage in Tuscany
In the eyes of many wine lovers, the year 1998
is often overshadowed by the opulent, hot and very early 1997 vintage.
This is a major mistake. Whilst 1997 was characterised by an ‘international’ style,
1998 was a classic, cooler and more elegant vintage.
Growing season:
Spring was changeable with light rainfall, followed by
a hot but not extreme summer. The crucial ripening phase
in September and October was characterised by cool nights and significant
day-night temperature fluctuations.
Result:
These conditions preserved the natural acidity and aromatic
freshness of the Sangiovese grapes. The 1998 vintage lacks the rich,
jammy body of the 1997, but captivates with its
breathtaking tension, minerality and neat, cool fruit. It is the more intellectual of the two top vintages.
4. Vinification & Ageing (‘Il Greppo’ style)
The 1998 Riserva underwent the rigorous, traditional process that established the Biondi Santi legend:
Maceration:
20 to 30 days at controlled temperatures (not too high, to
preserve the delicate aromas), with daily, gentle pump-overs
to gently extract colour and tannins.
Ageing: Maturation took place exclusively in large, multi-use Slavonian oak vats
(capacity 30 to 60 hectolitres). These vats do not impart
wine no sweet, toasty or vanilla-like aroma (as with small barriques),
but rather promote a slow, micro-oxidative maturation that elegantly binds the tannins
and allows the tertiary aromas (leather, tobacco, truffle)
to develop.
Ageing in bottle: After around 3 years in oak , the wine was bottled unfiltered and spent at least a further 3 years in the cool cellars of Il Greppo before being released in 2004.
5. Sensory description (Tasting Notes – as of 2026)
Appearance:
Deep, luminous garnet red with a distinct yet harmonious brick-orange hue
at the rim. The colour bears witness to its long maturation, yet still appears
dense and concentrated at the centre – a sign of enormous
extract richness.
Nose (Bouquet):
The nose is a breathtaking kaleidoscope of complexity. Initially , dried cherry, bitter orange peel and plum jam dominate . Behind these, the typical Biondi-Santi tertiary aromas unfold: fine tobacco, fine leather, graphite, dried herbs (rosemary, sage) and a hint of black truffle. The cool, balsamic note is striking – almost like eucalyptus or mint
– which is characteristic of this particular clone and the cool terroir of Il Greppo
. Despite its age, the nose still displays an
impressive, fresh fruitiness.
Palate:
The full magic of this wine is revealed on the palate. It is medium-bodied, yet possesses incredible density and a precise, taut acidity structure,
which makes the wine seem like a diamond. After 28
years (as of 2026), the tannins are completely polished, fine-grained and perfectly
integrated into the fruit – they form a silky yet supportive
framework. The body is springy, lively and by no means heavy. On the
palate, the aromas of cherry jam recur, followed by
mineral notes (limestone, chalk) and a long, salty
finish. The finish is almost endless and leaves a hint of liquorice and dried violets.
Conclusion on maturity:
This wine is now at its perfect drinking stage.
It has completely shed its youthful harshness without showing even
a trace of fatigue. It will maintain this peak with
ease until at least 2040, before slowly transitioning into an even earthier/more balsamic phase.
6. Reviews & Market Situation
The
1998 Riserva was highly praised by the international press, even
though, due to its restrained, classic style, it did not achieve the
top scores of the more opulent vintages.
Wine Spectator: 93/100 points (Praised for its balance and purity).
Robert Parker / The Wine Advocate: 91–93/100 (Its remarkable freshness and long finish were highlighted).
Gambero Rosso: Awarded the coveted ‘Tre Bicchieri’.
James Suckling: 95/100 (with the comment: “A wine that makes you dream”).
Price trend (as of 2026):
Due to
its rarity (only around 20,000 to 25,000 bottles produced) and its
enormous collector’s value, the price for a bottle in impeccable
provenance (original box, unbroken chain of custody) lies between 400 and 650 euros. At auctions, significantly higher sums can also be achieved, depending on the condition and bottle size (magnum).
7. Recommendations for enjoyment
To ensure the experience is perfect, there are a few key rules to follow:
Decanting:
The wine has spent 28 years ageing in the bottle. Nevertheless,
natural sediment accumulates in the unfiltered wine. The bottle should be left standing upright for 2 to 3 hours before serving to allow the sediment to settle. Decanting must be avoided at all costs
(too much oxygen damages the delicate structure!). Serve carefully into
a carafe or directly from the bottle – but only after
gently swirling it in the carafe, just to release the initial aromas
.
Serving temperature: 16 to 18 °C (no warmer, otherwise the acidity will come through unpleasantly).
Food pairing:
The 1998 vintage is a superb accompaniment to food. It calls for robust, yet not overly heavy, flavours:
Game dishes: Braised wild boar knuckle (cinghiale), typical of Tuscan cuisine.
Poultry: Roasted duck breast with cranberries or poached pigeon (Piccione).
Pasta & risotto: Pappardelle with hare ragù or a creamy risotto with white truffles (Tartufo bianco).
Cheese:
Matured Pecorino Toscano (aged for at least 12 months) or Parmesan
– but under no circumstances too salty or too sharp, so as not to
overpower the fruit.
8. Final summary
The Biondi Santi Brunello di Montalcino Riserva ‘Il Greppo’ 1998
is the embodiment of the purist, timeless Brunello style. It
impressively demonstrates that greatness in wine does not stem from extract and alcohol
, but from elegance, acidity and the expression of the terroir.
For the collector, it is the ultimate
expression of maturity; for the connoisseur in 2026, it offers a sensuous
experience that bridges the gap between the ancient Tuscan winemaking tradition
and the modern conception of great minerality. Anyone
fortunate enough to open a bottle of this vintage should take their time
– this wine tells a story that is constantly rewritten
in the glass over many hours. An unforgettable wine
from an unforgettable decade.
