Philippe Leclerc - Gevrey-Chambertin 1er cru 'La Combe Moins' 1998

Philippe Leclerc - Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 'La Combe aux Moines' 1998

Summary

The 1998 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "La Combe aux Moines" from Philippe Leclerc is a mature Burgundy from the renowned Premier Cru vineyard in the northern part of the Côte de Nuits. After more than 25 years, the wine presents itself in a mature drinking window with a deep ruby colour, complex aromas of red and black fruits and earthy, animal notes. The natural cuvée made from 50-year-old vines was matured in barriques for 22 months. While the 1998 vintage in Burgundy produced solid to good wines overall, this particular wine, due to its age and Philippe Leclerc's specific vinification philosophy, can be considered a characterful, if not undisputed, representative of its class.

1. The winery: Domaine Philippe Leclerc

Domaine Philippe Leclerc is a family-run winery in Gevrey-Chambertin, which was founded by Philippe Leclerc. He comes from a family of winegrowers whose wines used to be sold to merchants. In the 1970s, he took over the business and made the bold decision to acquire an old building complex as a winery and sell his wines directly to customers.

Philippe Leclerc is a colourful and controversial figure in the otherwise rather tradition-conscious wine world of Burgundy. He is considered a passionate traditionalist with a pronounced "common sense". At the same time, he is known for his eccentric lifestyle, which some observers associate with a "Hell's Angels" biker. The estate cultivates around 8 hectares of vineyards, four of which are Premier Cru, and is characterised by intensive ageing in barriques, often for more than two years, with a high proportion of new barrels (100% new barriques per year).

2. The site: Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "La Combe aux Moines"

The premier cru vineyard "La Combe aux Moines" is located in the north of the commune of Gevrey-Chambertin, close to the border with Brochon. The name is derived from the monks who cultivated vines here in the Middle Ages.

• Site characteristics: The 4.77-hectare vineyard is one of the highest sites in Burgundy at almost 400 metres above sea level.

• Soil & exposure: The soils are clayey and calcareous (argilo-calcaire) and were enriched by debris deposits from the nearby valley. The site is steep and east-facing, which allows efficient utilisation of the morning sunlight.

• Vines: The average age of the vines in Philippe Leclerc's plots is around 50 years, some are even up to 80 years old.

3. The 1998 vintage in Burgundy

The 1998 vintage in Burgundy is described as solid and with good potential. A cool, rainy spring was followed by a warm, dry summer, which allowed the grapes to ripen well. The harvest produced wines that can be fruity and seductive, but also fleshy and structured. Compared to the legendary 1999 or 2005 vintages, 1998 is a reliable, if not outstanding, vintage.

4. The wine: Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru 'La Combe aux Moines' 1998

4.1. vinification and ageing

Philippe Leclerc is an advocate of the most natural winemaking possible. The grapes are harvested by hand and completely destemmed. One of the winery's trademarks is its long ageing process: the wine matures for 22 months in barriques, whereby, according to critics, it uses a very high proportion of new barrels (up to 100%). Philippe Leclerc also dispenses with filtration and fining in order to preserve the structural integrity of the wine.

4.2 Sensory description

As there is no official tasting note from a professional critic for this specific wine and vintage, the following notes have been compiled from community tastings:

• Community Tasting Notes (CellarTracker):

  • Colour: medium ruby.

  • Nose: raspberry, cinnamon, violet, earth, blackberry, stony soil, aniseed.

  • Palate: Raspberry and iron on the tongue, with spicy notes. Moderate acidity, supple tannins, medium to long finish. One taster describes the wine as "a little tired, but interesting", while another praises the depth and "almost Grand Cru"-like quality.

• Community Tasting Note (winesinfo.com):

  • Colour: deep cherry red.

  • Nose: fine and elegant aromas of leather and mushrooms.

  • Palate: complete, balanced structure.

4.3. drinking maturity

After more than 25 years, this wine is at a mature drinking stage. The community tastings from 2014-2017 show a wine that has lost its youthful freshness but is appreciated for its complexity, "terroir" character and depth. The tannins are largely broken down and supple. The wine should be consumed over the next few years, as some tasters have already noticed signs of fatigue.

5. Market presence and price

The 1998 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "La Combe aux Moines" by Philippe Leclerc is a rare wine on the market. It is occasionally offered in collections on auction sites. Prices for similar wines from other producers from the same vineyard range between €51 and €70 per bottle, depending on the condition and producer. The condition of the bottle (fill level, labelling) and the provenance are decisive for the value.

List of sources

• wine-world.com: Philippe Leclerc La Combe Aux Moines, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru, France

• idealwine.com: Philippe Leclerc - Gevrey-Chambertin

• idealwine.com: Cote Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Combe aux Moines Philippe Leclerc 2008

• winesinfo.com: 瑞勒莊園香貝田-科比一級幹紅

• shop.klwines.com: 1996 Phillippe LeClerc Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru "La Combe aux Moines"

• m.vn.vinicolewinecellar.net: Philippe Leclerc La Combe Aux Moines

• tastingbook.com: Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru "Les Cazetiers" 1998

• pierrebrisset.com: Gevrey Chambertin Premier Cru - La Combe aux Moines 2017

• villagesfrancais.fr: Gevrey-Chambertin premier cru Combe au Moine (AOP)

• wine-searcher.com: Gevrey-Chambertin Combe au Moine, Burgundy

• burgundund-online.de: Domaine Philippe Leclerc

• idealwine.com: Buy Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Combe aux moines Faiveley 1998

• cellartracker.com: 1998 Domaine René Leclerc Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Combe aux Moines