Markgraf von Baden - Bermatinger Leopoldsberg 'B' Pinot Noir GG Grosses Gewächs dry 2016
Short profile
1. The winery and its philosophy
The Markgraf von Badenwinery is one of the most traditional wineries in Germany and has its headquarters in the historic Salem Castleon Lake Constance. The family's history is closely linked to winegrowing in Baden - the House of Baden has played a key role in shaping the region's wine industry since 1112. Today, the winery cultivates around 100 hectares of vineyards on Lake Constance and other areas in Ortenau and is a member of the Association of German Prädikat Wine Estates (VDP).
The philosophy of the estate, formulated by H.K.H. Bernhard Markgraf von Baden, is centred on Burgundian grape varieties, especially Pinot Noir. The aim is to bring the unique terroirs of Baden to life at the highest level: "We focus on Pinot varieties, which develop singular, clear and elegant expressions in Baden, on Lake Constance and the Rhine Valley. We are obliged to make Baden terroir palatable at the highest level."
The VDP.Große Lage "Bermatinger Leopoldsberg" is one of the estate's most prestigious sites. It is characterised by glacial moraine weathered soils of Alpine origin - a terroir that gives the wine its characteristic minerality, cool fruit and fine elegance.
2. Vintage 2016 in retrospect
The 2016 vintage at Lake Constance was characterisedby moderate but changeable weather conditions.A cool spring was followed by a warm, sunny summer, which favoured a slow, even ripening of the grapes. Cool nights in autumn ensured that the natural acidity was retained and complex aromas developed - ideal conditions for an elegant, well-structured Pinot Noir.
3. Tasting notes
The wine was tasted several times by Falstaff and achieved 91 points. It also received an excellent rating from Meininger Verlag.
Eye
Bright, medium to deep ruby red colourwith garnet-red reflections. The colour is clear and brilliant, indicating careful processing and still youthful development potential.
Nose
The bouquet is fruity and complex:
Ripe red berry fruit: cherry, raspberry, blackberry
Delicate smoky and spicy accents
Subtle hints of blood orange and light-coloured fruit
Subtle notes of cedar wood and vanilla
The nose is cool and fruity, with a hint of toasted wood, without ever being overpowering.
Palate
Falstaff describes the palate as follows (tasting from 23/11/2020)"A finely extracted, elegant Pinot Noir with local colour that convinces with rather quietly presented arguments - it's not about force, but about finesse and nuance."
The Meininger judgement adds: "Very direct on the palate, pleasantly cool fruit and spice, juicy, elegant, fresh and long."
From an earlier Falstaff tasting (23/11/2019):"Beautiful fine fruit of red and black fruits. Elegant and light-footed on the palate with a taut acidity structure and a slight influence from the large wooden barrel. Juicy, elegant, carefully extracted, crafted with finesse. A typical See-Burgunder!"
Finish
The wine is mineral, fresh and has good length. The acidity is taut but integrated, the tannins are ripe, grainy and fine-meshed - a typical representative of the cool, elegant style of a Pinot Noir from Lake Constance.
4. Ratings at a glance
The wine is consistently described as elegant, finely extracted and typical of Lake Constance. Neither power nor lush fruit are in the foreground, but finesse, freshness and mineral depth.
5. Vinification and technical data
The Pinot Noir was matured for 18 months in large, traditional wooden barrels ("large wooden barrel"). This ageing supports the gentle integration of tannins and wood notes without overpowering the fine fruit. The wine was bottledunfiltered to preserve its full flavour and textural potential.
Technical analysis (according to Meininger):
Alcohol: 13.00 % vol.
Residual sugar: 1.00 g/l → clear dry wine
Total acidity: 5.40 g/l → fresh, firm structure
Extract: finely meshed, elegant
Closure: Natural cork
6. Site and terroir: Bermatinger Leopoldsberg
The VDP.Große Lage "Bermatinger Leopoldsberg" is located at an altitude of around 400-480 metres above Lake Constance and is one of the oldest and most prestigious vineyards in Baden. The geological features:
Moraine weathered soils of alpine origin - soils formed during the ice age, rich in lime and minerals, which provide good drainage and heat storage.
Microclimate: The proximity to Lake Constance moderates temperature fluctuations, ensures cool nights and extends the growing season. This favours the development of freshness, elegance and fine acidity.
The southern exposure of the slopes ensures optimal sunlight for the slow, even ripening of the Pinot Noir grapes.
These factors give the wine its unmistakable profile: cool fruit, fine flavour, lively acidity and a mineral depth that distinguishes it from more powerful, warmer Pinot Noirs (e.g. from the Markgräflerland or Ortenau regions).
7. Drinking recommendation and ageing potential
The Bermatinger Leopoldsberg 'B' Pinot Noir GG 2016is currently in an excellent drinking window (approx. 2020-2030). Thanks to its taut acid structure, fine, ripe tannins and good extract fullness, it has a considerable ageing potential of at least 5-8 years from vintage.
Optimum drinking temperature: 14-18 °C. The fine fruit flavours and minerality come into their own at lower temperatures.
Recommended decanting time: The wine benefits from an hour in the decanter or careful aeration in order to develop its full flavour.
8. Food pairing
Due to its freshness, elegance and fine spiciness, this wine harmonises perfectly with a variety of dishes:
Poultry: duck breast with cranberry sauce, roast poulard, pheasant
Red meat: veal fillet, lightly grilled beef fillet, herb-crusted lamb chops
Game dishes: venison ragout with juniper berries, saddle of venison
Cheese: Medium-aged to mature soft and hard cheeses (e.g. Chaource, Comté, Appenzeller)
Vegetarian options: Mushroom risotto, roasted porcini mushrooms, truffle dishes, grilled vegetables
The subtle woody flavour and cool fruit also make it an ideal accompaniment to moderately spicyAsian dishes (e.g. Szechuan pepper chicken) or herb-crusted roast salmon.
9. Price and availability
The recommended retail price at launch was around €45-47 per bottle (0.75 litres). Currently (as of 2025/2026), the wine is only available to a limited extent from specialist retailers or auction houses due to its limited availability - it is a Großes Gewächs with a small harvest quantity.
Note:The premium line "Markgraf von Baden" has since been discontinued, which further reduces availability and makesthe wine an increasingly rare collector's item.
10. Conclusion
The Markgraf von Baden Bermatinger Leopoldsberg 'B' Pinot Noir GG 2016 is an outstanding example of the elegant, cool style of a Pinot Noir from Lake Constance. It does not impress with its power or opulent fruit, but with its finesse, freshness and mineral depth.
With 91 Falstaff points and excellent reviews, it is one of the best German Pinot Noirs of the 2016 vintage. This wine is an absolute recommendation for lovers of Pinot Noirs inspired by Burgundy and characterised by terroir - suitable for immediate enjoyment as well as for further ageing.
Conclusion in one sentence: A dancing, elegant, cool and mineral Pinot Noir from Lake Constance that shows its strengths in the balance of fruit, acidity and fine spice - a wine for connoisseurs and gourmets who appreciatesubtlety and differentiation.