Domaine Georges & Christophe Roumier - Ruchottes-Chambertin 'Grand Cru' 1987

Domaine Georges & Christophe Roumier - Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru 1987

The 1987 Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru from Domaine Georges & Christophe Roumier is one of those rare examples of an era in which the Chambolle-Musigny estate had already cemented its reputation as one of the great names of Burgundy, but was still managed by Christophe Roumier before international fame anchored the estate in the highest price segments. In the context of the late 20th century, the 1987 vintage is an often overlooked but fascinating representative in its unconventionality.

Vineyard and site

Domaine Roumier only owns a very small parcel of land in Ruchottes-Chambertin, one of the most prestigious Grand Cru sites in Gevrey-Chambertin. The terroir is characterised by a particularly thin, stony soil over a hard limestone layer - a site that is known for its characteristic minerality, its finesse-rich structure and its great ageing potential. Roumier's share is located in the upper part of the Climat, which gives the wine an additional coolness and exceptional depth.

Characteristics of the 1987 vintage

The 1987 vintage in Burgundy was not a critically acclaimed vintage. It was characterised by early ripeness and moderate acidity levels. The yields were mixed, and the wines were often less concentrated than the legendary years before (such as 1985) or after (1988, 1989). But for a producer of Roumier's calibre, this was by no means a compromise. In the hands of Christophe Roumier, the Ruchottes-Chambertin grapes were vinified into a wine that focussed more on elegance, Pinot Noir primary fruit and terroir transparency than on massive extraction.

Condition and development

A bottle of this vintage is now at an advanced stage of maturity, provided it has been stored under optimal conditions (cool, damp cellar, constant temperature). The wine has long since left its primary fruit flavours behind. The colour is a deep brick with amber edges - a clear sign of maturity, without the wine necessarily appearing oxidative.

A complex bouquet unfolds on the nose: dried cherries, wild strawberry compote, underlaid with notes of truffle, forest floor, leather, fine tobacco and the animal spice typical of mature Burgundy. Despite the warm vintage, the mineral coolness of the Ruchottes should be noticeable and lend the flavour an unnerving, almost chalky component.

On the palate, the 87 Roumier shows a surprising, albeit delicate structure. The tannins are completely polished, the acidity is integrated, almost melting. The texture is silky, the body medium-bodied. The decisive factor is the question of length: a well-preserved specimen should offer a long finish characterised by fine spice and minerality. However, due to the naturally lower concentration of the vintage, the wine can lose some of its vigour at the top and appears slimmer, almost fragile, compared to larger vintages.

Maturity and potential

Roumier's Ruchottes-Chambertin 1987 is a wine for immediate enjoyment. It has passed its peak, but is still in a plateau of drinkable maturity if stored well. It should be decanted, primarily to separate the sediment, but with caution - too much oxygen could quickly break down the remaining fruit structure. Dishes such as truffle risotto, young pigeon or mature hard cheese (Comté or Gruyère), which pick up on the earthy and spicy notes of the wine without overpowering its flavour, are suitable accompaniments.

In the rare collection of great Burgundies, this wine is less a statement of power than a testimony to the ability of one of Burgundy's greatest terroir interpreters to create a wine of unmistakable identity and great emotional depth, even in a moderate vintage.