Tokajhegyaljai Állami Gazdasági Borkombinát - Tokaji Szamorodni édes 1959, Tokaj, Hungary

Introduction: A liquid legacy of socialism

This wine is more than just a dessert wine; it is a historical document from a bygone era. It dates back to 1959, a time when the Hungarian wine industry was under the centralised control of the Tokajhegyaljai Állami Gazdasági Borkombinát(Tokaj State Wine Industry Combine). A "Szamorodni" from this vintage, which is already over 65 years old, offers a unique sensory journey into the past and is a rare survivor of the mass production of the time under state supervision. The name "Szamorodni" (Polish for "as grown") means that the grapes with and without noble rot (Botrytis cinerea) were pressed together, which distinguishes this style from the more concentrated breakout wines (Aszú).

Sensory description (when stored in perfect condition)

For a wine of this age, the condition of the bottle is of crucial importance. A perfectly stored bottle can offer an overwhelming experience.

Colour

• Deep, opaque mahogany to olive brown with amber reflections. The intense colour is the result of decades of oxidation and concentration.

Nose

The bouquet is intense, complex and characterised by the typical "rancio" note that comes from old, oxidatively matured sweet wines.

• Dried fruit: Raisins, dried figs, prunes, dates and apricot jam.

• Nuts & spices: Walnut, hazelnut, bitter almond, honeycomb, caramel, cinnamon and a hint of dark rum.

• Oxidative notes: The characteristic Rancio note: a mixture of old wooden furniture, sherry (Oloroso), English walnut sherry and damp cellar.

• Botrytis: Even after all these years, a hint of the noble rot is often still perceptible: a honey-like, slightly mushroomy note.

• Acidity: Surprisingly, a fresh, apple-like note often shines through, lending the wine vibrancy.

Palate

The magic of long ageing is revealed on the palate.

• Texture: Oily, fat and extremely concentrated, but never sticky. The sweetness is perfectly balanced by the lively acidity and alcoholic warmth.

• Taste: An explosion of flavours perceived on the nose: sultanas, nuts, caramel and rancio in harmonious fusion.

• Acidity: The preserved acidityis the secret of this wine's longevity. It cuts through the sweetness and gives the wine incredible freshness and length.

• Finish: Extremely long and persistent, the flavours of dried fruit, nuts and a pleasant bitter note (like orange peel or roasted coffee beans) linger for minutes. The sweetness disappears cleanly without leaving a sticky impression.

Historical classification & production

Vintage 1959 in Tokaj

• A very good, warm vintage that favoured the development of noble rot. Such vintages were the basis for long-lasting sweet wines.

• The wines from this period were often stored for a long time in large oak barrels (Gönci barrels), which favoured the oxidative character and rancio notes.

The state combine (Állami Gazdasági Borkombinát)

• In the socialist era (until 1989), almost all Tokaj wineries were grouped together in this large state-owned enterprise.

• The quality could fluctuate, but the best vintages and storage barrels still produced exceptional wines with enormous ageing potential.

• Bottles from this period are now historical rarities and evidence of a different production philosophy.

Szamorodni style

• "Édes" (sweet): In contrast to the dry ("száraz") Szamorodni.

• The grapes were harvestedwithout strict selection: a mixture of healthy, overripe berries and those affected by noble rot.

• The result is a less concentrated but often more accessible wine thatis ready to drink earlier than an Aszú.

Maturity, condition & risk

Current drinking maturity

The wine has long since reachedits optimum drinking windowand is on a plateau of complexity. If stored properly, it can last for years, even decades, but no further improvement is to be expected.

Risk factors

1. Fill level: Crucial. A low level (below the shoulder) indicates too much oxidation.

2. Cork: Old, brittle corks are a danger.

3. Storage: Constant, cool temperatures were essential over 65 years.

Recommendation

Do not store further, but open with the appropriate reverence. The wine should always be stored upright to separate the sediment.

Rating & recommendations for enjoyment

Rating (for a perfect bottle): 95/100 points

The rating recognises the historical significance, the amazing freshness and complexity after more than 65 years and the unique flavour profile of a mature Tokay from a bygone era.

Recommendations for handling

1. Serving temperature: 12-14°C. Never refrigerate, otherwise the flavours will not develop.

2. Decanting: Decant carefully to separate the sediment (a considerable sediment is normal) from the clear liquid. Do not aerate.

3. Glass: A medium-sized white wine glass or even a small sherry copita is ideal.

4. Accompaniment:

   • It is bestneat as a meditation wine.

   • Desserts: Only with very subtle, not too sweet desserts such as nut cake, cheesecake or dried fruit compote.

   • Cheese: Blue cheese (Roquefort, Gorgonzola) or mature, strong mountain cheese.

   • Foie gras is a classic combination.

Conclusion

The Tokaji Szamorodni Édes 1959 from the State Combine is an exceptional and moving wine tasting. It is a contemporary witness that demonstrates the ability of great Tokaji wines to endure for over half a century while gaining complexity and depth. Every sip tells of the history of Tokaj, of past production methods and of the everlasting magic of the combination of noble rot, acidity and time. Opening such a bottle is not an everyday pleasure, but a solemn, almost ceremonial event for every lover of historic wines. It is an opportunity to savour a liquid piece of European wine history - powerful, complex and unforgettable.