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1727 was a great vintage in Germany, not only in terms of the quality of the wines, but also in terms of the quantity harvested. Nevertheless, a wine bottled back then would certainly no longer be drinkable today. In Bremen's Ratskeller, it lies in a barrel, the legendary 1727 Rüdesheimer Apostelwein. Half a bottle is sometimes filled for special occasions. But nowhere near as often as the recent increase in offers for this wine at auctions would have you believe. A half bottle bottled in 2000 especially for an English Chistie's auction fetched around 6,500 euros. In the summer of 2005, I had the pleasure of tasting the Rüdesheimer Apostelwein from a bottle bottled a good 80 years ago. Due to this additional bottle ageing, it may present itself somewhat differently than "fresh from the barrel". Dark brown in colour, fascinating nose, semi-dry sherry, tar, coffee tones, old, slightly rotten leather, remains beautiful on the nose, but very quickly fades on the palate and becomes acidic. Nevertheless, it is fascinating that such a wine is still drinkable at all (source: wineterminator.com Dr Becker).

Rüdesheim apostle wine 'Bremer Ratskeller' 1727

1. Introduction and historical context

The Rüdesheimer Apostelwein from 1727 from the Bremen Ratskeller is a legendary wine rarity of worldwide cultural-historical and viticultural significance. It is a Rheingau Rieslingfrom the Rüdesheimer Berg vineyard, which has been stored in the historic wine cellar of Bremen's town hall (Ratskeller) for centuries.

The Bremen Ratskeller, documented since 1405, houses one of the oldest and most valuable wine collections in Germany, including the famous "Apostelweine". These are 12 barrels(later bottles) of old, high-quality vintages named after the twelve apostles. The barrel containing the wine from 1727 was traditionally named "Matthäus".

2. The 1727 vintage

  • Wine-growing region: Rheingau, especially the steep slope Rüdesheimer Berg.

  • Grape variety: Riesling (typical for the Rheingau).

  • Vintage conditions: 1727 is considered an outstanding yearin the Rheingau. The weather conditions were ideal for the late harvest and the development of noble rot (Botrytis cinerea), resulting in wines with a high concentration of sugar and extract.

  • Ageing: The wine was originally stored in large wooden barrels and later transferred to glass balloons or earthenware jugs.

3. Meaning and myth

The Apostelwein from 1727 symbolises the art of long-term wine storageand the historical trading relationship between Bremen (as an important Hanseatic city) and the wine-growing regions along the Rhine. It was not intended for sale, but served as a representative wine for festive occasions for Bremen's upper classes and in honour of special guests.

The "Apostle" traditionmeant that the oldest of the twelve wines was drunk and replaced by a new, great vintage as soon as a barrel ran out. This kept the collection alive, while extremely old wines such as the one from 1727 became absolute rarities.

4. Sensory description (based on historical records)

Old wines of this type are subject to extreme changes. Contemporary descriptions (including those of 19th/20th century wine writers) indicate:

  • Colour: Deep amber to mahogany gold, due to oxidation and long ageing.

  • Aroma: Intense, complex aromas of rancio character(walnut, caramel, old sherry), dried fruit, honey, tea and a mineral, stony note.

  • Flavour: Despite the high residual sugar (originally), the sweetness was greatly reduced due to the extreme ageing. The wine had enormous concentration, lively acidity (typical of Riesling) and an endless finish. It was no longera "fruity" wine, but a living historical document with notes of spices, liquorice and old wood barrel notes.

5. State of preservation and scientific consideration

  • Storage: Ideal in the Bremen Ratskeller: constant, cool temperatures (approx. 12-13°C), high humidity, dark and vibration-free.

  • Preservation: The high natural sugar and alcohol content as well as the acidity of the Riesling contributed to its longevity. A stable, almost imperishable character developed through oxidation.

  • Drinkability: Such wines can theoretically be kept almost indefinitely, but no longer develop further in terms of their flavour. They are drinkable, but their enjoyment is above all a historical and sensual experience.

6. Historical tastings and events

  • Last documented openings:The 1727 was only tasted on special occasions, e.g. for state visits or special anniversaries. There are reports of tastings in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

  • Whereabouts: It is unclear whether original bottles of the 1727 Apostelwein still exist today in the Bremen Ratskeller. The collection has suffered losses due to wars (especially the Second World War) and occasional tastings. Today, the remaining old "apostles" are priceless museum pieces and are rarely opened.

7. Cultural-historical classification

The 1727 apostle wine stands for:

  • The centuries-old wine culture of northern Germany and the importance of the wine trade for the Hanseatic League.

  • The art of wine ageing and storage over generations.

  • A national cultural asset, comparable to the best wines in the treasuries of Johannisberg Castle or the Würzburg Bürgerspital.

8. Summary

The Rüdesheim Apostle Wine 'Bremer Ratskeller' 1727 is one of the world's greatest wine legends, epitomising the ideal combination of an outstanding vintage, a magnificent location, the Riesling grape variety and perfect storage conditions over almost three centuries. More than a drink, it is a liquid archive piece that carries the history of German viticulture, Hanseatic trade and European drinking culture within it.

Note:As this is a historical rarity, detailed current analyses or public tasting notes are not available. The descriptions are based on historical sources and the records of the Bremen Ratskeller.

Broadbent review (Broadbent's wine notes): This wine comes from a large cask in the famous '12 apostles' cellar beneath the Town Hall or Ratskeller in Bremen. The first time this appeared in a Christie's wine catalogue was in 1829 when it sold for 5 pounds per dozen, a high price at the time. An occasional half bottle has appeared at auction since that date, mainly over the past 30 years. The wine is drawn from the mother cask which is then topped up with a young Rudesheimer of appropriate quality. In this way the large volume of the old wine is kept refreshed. I first tasted the 1727 at Schloss Vollrads in 1973 at a tasting of wines of the world to celebrate Count Matushka's 80th birthday. Another memorable occasion took place at a dinner in Sydney on the evening of my first visit to Australia in February 1977. By way of welcome, my host, the irrepressible Len Evans had invited the Prime Minister and a group of the best 'palates'. Among other fine and rare wines was this 250 year old Hock. Just as it was about to be served, there was a shattering crash followed by an agonised Australian voice 'Gee Len, sorry we'll just have to have the 1928'! (The 'waiter' Anders Ousbach, who had dropped a handful of spoons, was a wine expert and opera singer known for his practical jokes). On my second visit to Bremen in 1981, I was able to taste the wine from the cask. It had an amber straw colour, the smell of old apples and a nutty appley taste. Dry, good length. High acidity. More recently, from a half bottle 'Réserve du Bremer Ratskeller': it was paler than I had previously noted, Secial Madeira-like colour, bouquet also reminded me of an old Madeira, then more like a raya sherry. After 2 hours in the glass a smell of rich old stables and an hour after that, an amazing pungency lingered in the empty glass. On the palate medium-dry, lightish weight, a soft, gentler, slightly toasted old straw flavour, tolerable acidity, and clean finish. *****
Alcohol Alcohol: 10
Colour Colour: white
Country Country: Germany
Filling quantity Filling quantity: 350 ml
Flavour Flavour: sweet
Grape variety Grape variety: Riesling
Product type Product type: Wine
Region Region: Rheingau
Type of wine Type of wine: White wine
Vintage Vintage: 1727
Producer Producer: Bremen Ratskeller

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Allergens: Sulphites

Bottler: Producer