Luigi Callisano - Barolo 1965

Here is a detailed review of the Luigi Calissano & Figli Barolo Riserva Speciale 1965, a true relic of Piedmontese winemaking history that offers a glimpse into the glorious era of one of the pioneers of Barolo.

1. Historical portrait: Luigi Calissano & Figli

The story of this wine does not begin in a small family winery, but with an entrepreneurial visionary. Luigi Calissano initially ran a respected hardware store in Alba. It was not until 1872, at the age of 47, that he ventured into the wine industry with the help of his three sons Vincenzo, Pietro and Giovanni.

His business acumen was remarkably modern:

• Establishing a trading empire:Calissano not only bought grapes in the Langhe region, but also expanded rapidly. He opened sales offices in Genoa, Turin and Milan and tapped into the American market early on, where he even built his own production building .

• Pioneering spirit:In addition to the traditional red wines of the Langhe (Nebbiolo from Barolo and Barbaresco), the company was also one of the first producers of sparkling wine using the Champenoise method in Italy. Calissano was also a well-known name in the production of vermouth.

• Decline: The empire experienced its decline due to the American Prohibition (from 1920) and the Great Depression of 1929, which had a massive impact on the business.

At the turn of the century, the "Azienda Vinicola Luigi Calissano" was one of the largest wine houses in the region. As it no longer exists today, available bottles are extremely rare testimonies to this entrepreneurial history.

2. Origin and vinification

The wine is labelled Barolo DOCG Riserva Speciale.

• Grape variety: As stipulated by the DOCG regulations, it was made from 100% of the indigenous Nebbiolo grape variety .

• Ageing: As a "Riserva", it underwent a particularly long ageing period, typically for several years in large wooden barrels (botti) made from Slavonian oak. This traditional method gives the wine an unmistakable "old-school" character with subtle oxidative notes without overpowering it with strong oak flavours.

• 1965 vintage: This vintage is categorised by experts as a "Normal Vintage", which is described as a "fairly strong, balanced wine, with an intense and pleasant scent". It thus represents a classic, balanced Barolo of that era.

3. Current condition and commercial data

For a wine of this age, the state of preservation and provenance are of the utmost importance. The available bottles show typical signs of ageing:

• Fill level: often indicated as "1 To 4cm" or "Base of Neck" (approx. 3cm), which is still very acceptable for the age.

• Exterior: The labels are often "highly marked", "lightly scuffed" or "bin-soiled ", and the capsules may be slightly shrunk.

• Prices and auctions: The wine regularly appears on specialised auction platforms (iDealwine, Sylvie's, Spectrum Wine) and with merchants. The prices vary greatly:

  • A current estimate on iDealwine is around €92 per bottle.

  • An auction lot at Sylvie's was estimatedat €220 - €300.

  • A British retailer listed a bottle for £169.00.

4. Sensory description (tasting notes)

As the wine was bottled over 60 years ago, the flavours are deep into the tertiary phase. The notes available paint a picture of a grand old Barolo in the traditional style:

• Appearance: A pale garnet red with distinct amber and brick colours on the rim.

• Nose: Highly complex and layered. Expect a bouquet of dried roses, potpourri, old leather and tobacco. There are also earthy and savoury notes such as truffle, undergrowth, wet leaves, cigar box and a hint of menthol or eucalyptus.

• Palate: The wine is soft and harmonious on the palate . The formerly strong tannins have mellowed into a velvety texture, while the acidity still provides a surprising balance and vibrancy. The flavours are dominated by dried cherries, cranberries and figs, which mingle with savoury elements such as dried herbs, leather and truffles.

• Finish: Long, lingering and graceful, with a final impression of dried fruit, earthy undertones and a mineral note.

5. Drinking recommendations

• Serving temperature: 16°C.

• Decanting: Handling is sensitive with a wine of this age. It should be decanted carefully to separate the natural sediment. Excessive aeration should be avoided, as the delicate aromas can quickly evaporate.

• Accompaniment: Goes excellently with refined dishes such as roasted game, truffle dishes or mature hard cheeses. However, it is best enjoyed on its own to fully appreciate its immense complexity.

Summary

The Luigi Calissano Barolo Riserva Speciale 1965 is far more than just an old wine. It is a coveted collector's item and a living artefact of Piedmontese wine history. As a product of a now defunct but once important trading house, it offers one of the rare opportunities to directly experience the style of a visionary Barolo pioneer.