Julian Haart - Ohligsberg Riesling kabinett 'ALTE REBEN' 2016 MAGNUM 1500ml

Julian Haart - Ohligsberg Riesling Kabinett 'ALTE REBEN' 2016 MAGNUM (1.5l)

1.General classification & winery
Julian Haart is one of the absolute top producers on the Moselle. Since his start in 2010, he has been cultivating ancient, ungrafted steep-slope vines ("Alte Reben") in Piesport, in particular the magnificent Ohligsberg. His style combines the minerality and transparency of the classic Mosel with an unrivalled intensity of fruit and delicate precision. The work is carried out with the utmost care, from hand-picking to spontaneous fermentation in traditional Mosel vats. A wine from the magnum bottle (1.5 litres) matures more slowly and harmoniously, which gives this Kabinett additional complexity and ageing potential.

2. Site: Ohligsberg (Piesport)

• Area: Mosel, Großlage Michelsberg, single vineyard.

• Character: South-west to south exposure, extremely steep slope with a gradient of up to 80%.

• Soil: Blue-grey Devonian slate, which provides mineral, herbaceous aromas and a racy acidity structure.

• Speciality: The Ohligsberg is considered one of the outstanding single vineyard sites on the Moselle, known for Rieslings of great finesse, depth and long development.

3.Vintage 2016
An outstanding year for classic, cabinet-accentuated Mosel Rieslings. A cool, long growing season with a warm, sunny autumn led to physiologically ripe grapes with moderate must weights. The wines combine fresh, lively acidity with deep, ripe fruit and have a pronounced mineral character. the 2016 wines are naturally balanced and have great ageing potential.

4. Sensory description

• Colour: Brightest golden yellow with greenish reflections, clear and radiant.

• Nose: Extremely complex and multi-layered. Intense aromas of ripe peach, white mirabelle plum, apple and grapefruit emerge . Underneath are fine notes of crushed slate, herbs (peppermint, lemon balm) and a floral blossom component (acacia, hawthorn). The magnum maturation gives the nose a particular density and integration.

• Palate: The first act is of enchanting lightness and floating finesse. The sweetness (Kabinett level) is perfectly embedded and is immediately supported by a vibrant, salty acidity and a clear mineral texture. The palate repeats the fruity and herbaceous flavours of the nose, complemented by a hint of citrus zest and a fine smokiness. The interplay between sweet fruit, salty slate and electrifying acidity is breathtakingly balanced. The finish is long, elegant and lingeringly mineral.

5.Ageing potential & development
This is no simple light drinker, but a Kabinett of great depth and structure. The magnum bottle slows down the development and makes it more harmonious.

• Current drinking window: 2024 - 2035+

• Youth (until ~2026): Radiant freshness, primary fruit in the foreground.

• Maturity (from ~2028): The fruit becomes increasingly pithy and spicy, the mineral and herbaceous play becomes more prominent, the complexity grows.

• Potential: Has what it takes to last 20 years and longer in the magnum, steadily gaining in fascination.

6. Serving recommendation & food pairing

• Temperature: 8-10°C

• Glass: Large, slim Riesling glass (e.g. Zalto Universal)

• Food pairing: The perfect aperitif accompaniment. Otherwise the ideal partnership with light, fine dishes: Roasted pike-perch or char, scallops, poultry ceviche, asparagus with hollandaise sauce, Thai cuisine (spicy and sour) or simply as a meditation wine.

7.Conclusion & rating
The Julian Haart Ohligsberg Riesling Kabinett 'Alte Reben' 2016 in the magnum is a spectacular, timeless Mosel Riesling that represents the absolute pinnacle of the Kabinett category. It combines the intensity of ancient vines, the minerality of the slate soil, the elegance of the 2016 vintage and the ageing effect of the magnum bottle to create an unforgettable whole. A wine of profound complexity combined with a floating lightness - an apparent paradox that only great wines can solve. A must for lovers of classic, long-lived Moselle Rieslings.

Rating scale: 99/100 points.
A reference wine for the Kabinett level and proof of the unrivalled class of the Ohligsberg and winemaker Julian Haart.