Georg Breuer - Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Q.b.A. Trocken 2003
1. Introduction and winery portrait
The Georg Breuerwinery in Rüdesheim am Rhein is one of the pioneers and undisputed top producers in the Rheingau. Founded in 1880, Bernhard Breuer (1942-2004) in particular revolutionised the perception of dry Rheingau Riesling with his philosophy from the 1980s onwards. His credo: concentration through reduction. Strict yield limitation, selective hand-picking and the uncompromising renunciation of any sweet reserve characterised the estate's unmistakable, mineral-dense style. Since his death, his sister Gerti and his daughter Theresa Breuer have continued to run the estate with the same dedication.
The single vineyard Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg is one of the most famous and steepest southern vineyards in Europe. The extremely steep, terraced vineyards with their Devonian slate and greywacke soil store heat, provide excellent drainage and give the Rieslings a unique, cool minerality, fine flavour and enormous longevity. The "Schlossberg" is the centrepiece of Breuer's range.
2. The 2003 vintage in the Rheingau: the "hot summer" phenomenon
2003 was an exceptional meteorological vintage throughout Europe.
Extremely hot and dry summer with long heat waves. Temperatures of over 40°C were not uncommon. The vines suffered from heat stress and drought.
Consequences for the grapes: Very early and rapid development. The danger lay in excessively high must weights with simultaneous rapid acid degradation. The winemakers' skill lay in not jeopardising physiological ripeness (aromas, tannins) through excessive sugar accumulation and loss of acidity.
Autumn & harvest: Very early harvest, at the end of August/beginning of September, to preserve the remaining acidity and freshness.
Vintage character: Wines of exceptional ripeness, fullness and alcohol strength, but with the challenge of maintaining balance. Not classically elegant, but powerful, sun-kissed wines.
For Georg Breuer, this meant The strength of the cool, mineral-rich slate soil in the Schlossberg was a crucial buffer against the heat. The work on the steep slope and the low yields made it possible to harvest grapes with intense fruit and preserved structure.
3. Production details and technical specifications
Predicate: Quality wine from a specific growing region (Q.b.A.) dry. At Breuer, this "simple" classification stands for the highest level. This is a typical, classic estate Riesling from the site, without Prädikats-Auslese, but with the full concentration of the vintage and the site.
Yield: Strictly limited, probably around 40-45 hl/ha, well below the Rheingau average.
Vinification: Traditional, gentle pressing. Spontaneous fermentation with its own yeasts in large, neutral wooden barrels. Long, slow fermentation to develop complexity.
Maturation: Several months on the fine lees (sur lie) in wooden barrels to promote texture and stability.
Alcohol content: High for a Riesling, estimated at 13.0 - 13.5% vol., typical for 2003.
Residual sugar: Truly dry, probably less than 4 g/l, fully compensated by acidity and alcohol.
Acidity: Moderate to good despite the hot year due to early harvest and cool location, the key to balance.
4. Sensory analysis (condition 2024)
After more than 20 years of ageing in the bottle, this wine shows its full depth of development.
Colour:
Medium to deep golden yellow with amber-coloured reflections.
Viscous and dense in the glass, clear "tear formation".
Nose:
The bouquet is intense and complex and shows the typical development of a mature, dry top Riesling.
The primary fruit is overlaid with ripe, tertiary aromas: petrol, paraffin (classic for mature Riesling), honeycomb, roasted almonds and walnuts.
The fruit of the hot year still resonates underneath: Apricot jam, dried peaches, a hint of quince.
The mineral foundation of the Schlossberg remains present: slatey, smoky, almost salty notes.
Palate:
Entry: full-bodied and luscious, almost warming due to the alcohol. The texture is creamy and silky.
Mid-palate: The maturity explodes: Flavours of honey, ripe yellow fruit and a distinct nuttiness. Despite the richness, the wine remains focused and taut thanks to a lively, refreshing acidity line and the mineral rigour. Not a trace of heaviness or fatigue.
Finish: Extremely longand persistent. The flavours of ripe fruit, petrol and slate combine to create a clean, dry finish with a pleasant, spicy bitterness (like orange peel) that adds complexity.
Overall impression:
A monumental, mature Riesling that has brought the extremes of 2003 into captivating form. It is not a classically dainty Rheingau, but a powerful, warm wine characterised by mineral precision. It demonstrates the longevity and potential for harmony even in extreme vintages in the hands of a great winemaker.
5. Expert ratings and drinking maturity
Current rating (in retrospect): Wines like this have cemented Breuer's reputation for producing great, characterful wines even in difficult vintages. today, 2003s from the top are considered surprisingly long-lived and ready to drink.
Drinking window: The wine is at its absolute peak (2020-2028), having traded its youthful radiance for unrivalled complexity. Further ageing is possible, but will no longer open up a new level of quality, instead allowing the tertiary flavours to come to the fore.
Development: 10 years ago it was still powerful and fruit-driven, today it is completely harmonious and has "arrived".
6. Comparison with other Breuer vintages
Vs. classic vintages (e.g. 2001, 2004): The 2003 is more opulent, warmer and less based on dashing acidity. It has more "meat on the bone".
Vs. other heat vintages (e.g. 2018, 2022): As an early example of a modern heat vintage, it shows the "old" style, which is less focussed on fruit and more on complexity and development. Modern heat vintages often appear more accessible and fruit-driven.
Within the range: As a Q.b.A., it represents the essence typical of the vineyard- perhaps more accessible and ready to drink earlier than the more age-intensive Spätlese or Auslese wines of the same vintage, but with the same terrestrial depth.
7. Market situation and value
Availability: Very limited. The vintage is 21 years old, most bottles have long since been consumed.
Price level: Originally an affordable entry into the world of Schlossberg, today, as a mature rarity, it is valued at €200-€400 per bottle (0.75 litre) at auctions or in specialist shops, depending heavily on the provenance.
Collector's value: High for lovers of mature Rieslings and the winery. It is a fascinating object of study for the development of Riesling in extreme vintages.
8. Serving recommendation and storage
Serving temperature: 12-14°C. Not too cool to open up the complex flavours.
Decanting: Not necessary, but 30 minutes in the glass will improve the bouquet considerably.
Glass: Large, bulbous white wine glass to reveal the complex nose.
Food pairing: Perfect with strong, aromatic dishes: Roasted wild salmon, char, venison medallions in a light sauce, mushroom risotto with truffles, mature mountain cheese (e.g. Comté, Beaufort). The wine can also hold its own against light dishes with roasted flavours.
9. Conclusion
The Georg Breuer Rüdesheimer Berg Schlossberg Riesling Q.b.A. dry 2003 is an impressive contemporary document. It proves that a great winegrower and a great site do not lose their identity even in extreme climatic years, but rather reinterpret it. From the challenge of the "summer of the century", the Breuers created a powerful, sun-drenched Riesling of great depth and dignity, disciplined by slate minerality and refreshing acidity.
When you open a bottle today, you do not get youthful freshness, but the full maturity and wisdom of a mature top wine. It is a pleasure for connoisseurs who appreciate the complex flavours of ageing, dry Rieslings, and living proof of the longevity of Rheingau Riesling in its driest and most concentrated form.
"Breuer's 2003 Schlossberg is like a wise, sun-tanned philosopher: powerful in expression, warm in tone, but with an unshakeable mineral core of truth." - An apt characterisation.
