D'Oliveiras - Reserva Old Wine Madeira vintage 1922 'matured over 60 years in wood'

Report: D'Oliveiras Reserva Old Wine Madeira Vintage 1922 "matured over 60 years in wood"

1. introduction:
The D'Oliveiras Reserva Old Wine Madeira Vintage 1922is no ordinary wine - it is a piece of living history and an absolute rarity from the portfolio of the renowned house of D'Oliveirasin Madeira. The indication "matured over 60 years in wood" emphasises its exceptional origin and makes it one of the longest-lived and most complex wines in the world.

2 The House of D'Oliveira:

• Founded in 1850 in Funchal, D'Oliveira (formerly Adegas de Torreão) is a guarantee of the highest quality and authenticity in Madeira wines.

• Famous for its huge stock of old barrels and bottles, which often mature for many decades in the traditional "Canteiro" system (long, slow oxidation in barrels in attics).

• The 1922 bottling comes from this invaluable historic stock.

3. the 1922 vintage & ageing:

• Vintage Significance: 1922 was a good vintage in Madeira, known for structured wines with great ageing potential.

• Exceptional ageing: The ageing of over 60 years in wooden barrels(presumably until the 1980s) is monumental even by Madeira standards. This extremely long oxidative maturation under moderate temperatures in the "Canteiro" system leads to:

  • Intense concentration: strong evaporation of water and alcohol ("Angel's Share"), condensation of aromas and flavours.

  • Profound complexity:Development of an incomparably broad spectrum of tertiary flavours (dried fruit, nuts, spices, wood, caramel, rancio).

  • Structure & balance: Despite high acidity and sweetness (typical of old Madeiras), an astonishing harmony and silkiness emerges.

  • Immortality: Oxidation and high acidity make the wine almost indestructible. It hardly changes after bottling.

4. sensory profile (typical of very old Madeiras of this type):

• Colour: Deep mahogany to almost black, with amber reflections. Very viscous "legs".

• Nose: Explosive and complex: strong aromas of walnut, pecan, old sherry vinegar (acetaldehyde), caramel, coffee, liquorice, smoke, tobacco, damp earth, spices (cinnamon, clove), rancio notes and a hint of dried figs and dates. Background of old wood patina.

• Palate: Full-bodied, incredibly dense and yet lively. Dominantly nutty (walnut, hazelnut), caramelised (toffee, Moscavado sugar), with clear notes of coffee, dark chocolate, tobacco and exotic spices. The characteristic, cutting acidity (typical of Madeira) is still present, but forms a perfect, almost enduring balance with the residual sweetness(presumably in the "rich" or "sweet" range) and the ripe tannins. The texture is often silky and oily.

• Finish:Extremely long, perhaps even endless. Leaves impressions of nuts, caramel, spices and a pleasant, slightly astringent acidity.

5. significance & rarity:

• Living museum piece: a wine from another time that epitomises Madeira's history and traditional Canteiro ageing.

• Absolute rarity: Only very few bottles still exist. Each bottle is a collector's item of inestimable value.

• Cult status: These bottles enjoy legendary status among connoisseurs and collectors. They represent the pinnacle of Madeira art.

6. tasting recommendations:

• Temperature: Slightly chilled (12-14°C).

• Glass: Large, tulip-shaped brandy or port wine goblet to allow the complex nose to unfold.

• Accompaniment:Enjoy neat as a contemplative experience. Can be paired with strong cheeses (Stilton, Roquefort), dark chocolate, nut desserts or a cigar. However, the wine dominates every combination.

• Time: Bring plenty of time! The wine unfolds over hours in the glass and constantly reveals new facets.

7. evaluation & conclusion:
The D'Oliveiras Reserva Old Wine Madeira Vintage 1922 is an exceptional jewel of the wine world.

• Complexity: 10/10 - A kaleidoscope of tertiary flavours that is almost impossible to decipher.

• Structure & Balance: 10/10 - Perfect harmony between acidity, sweetness, alcohol and extract despite (or because of) its age.

• Length: 10/10 - A finish that lasts for minutes.

• Uniqueness & rarity: 10/10 - A historical document in liquid form.

• Overall impression:An epochal wine that commands awe. It offers a sensory journey through a century. It is not so much a drink as an experience and an investment in the history of viticulture. For collectors and connoisseurs, it is a "Grail Wine".

Note:With such old and rare bottles, individual bottles may differ slightly in their characteristics due to the long storage period (both before and after bottling). The characteristics described are typical of very old Madeiras from the D'Oliveira warehouse that have been aged for a long time in cask.

To summarise:a wine that transcends the boundaries of time - the D'Oliveiras 1922 is a monumental taste of the immortality and artistry of Madeira viticulture. A privilege to be able to experience it.