Bollinger: The soul of champagne - A portrait of the legend from Aÿ

In the heart of Champagne, in picturesque Aÿ, where the sun kisses the chalky slopes of the Montagne de Reims with particular intensity, the life of a Champagne house has been pulsating for almost two centuries, a house that stands like no other for unshakeable tradition, perfect craftsmanship and an unmistakable, powerful style: Champagne Bollinger. More than a wine, Bollinger is a cultural asset, a synonym for excellence and British-French elegance. This report delves deep into the history, philosophy, unique methods and legendary wines of this exceptional house.

I. Roots and growth: A story of visionaries and passion (1829 - today)

The history of Bollinger begins not with a Frenchman, but with a German and a Briton - a sign of the international spirit that has characterised the house from the very beginning.

• 1829: The foundation by Joseph Bollinger:Jacques Bollinger, a young man from Württemberg, Germany, who originally used the name Jakob, emigrates to Champagne to seek his fortune in the wine trade. Together with the British Paul Renaudin and the Frenchman Athanase de Villermont, he founded the company "Renaudin, Bollinger & Cie" on 6 February 1829. De Villermont, who owned the necessary land, initially remained a silent partner, as his aristocratic status prohibited direct trading.

• The Joseph Bollinger era (1837-1918):Joseph Bollinger, nephew of the founder, joined the company in 1837 and took over the reins after Renaudin's death in 1846. Joseph is a pioneer. He acquired his first own vineyards - the basis for today's impressive domaine of 179 hectares, mainly Grand and Premier Cru (mainly in Aÿ, Louvois, Verzenay, Tauxières, Cuis). He established a reputation for top quality and laid the foundations for the characterful, Pinot Noir-orientated style. He also introduced the tradition of vinifying some of the wines in oak barrels - a practice that still forms the backbone of the Bollinger style today.

• Madame Jacques "Lily" Bollinger (1923-1977): The icon:After the early death of her husband Jacques, the grandson of founder Joseph, Lily Bollinger took over the reins in 1941 during a difficult time (world war, German occupation). Her energy, her courage and her deep love of the vineyards and wine left a lasting mark on the house, and she became a living legend, not only for her leadership but also for her charming and eloquent personality. Her oft-quoted motto: "I drink champagne when I'm happy and when I'm sad. Sometimes I drink it when I'm alone. When I have company, I consider it obligatory. I sip it when I'm not hungry and drink it when I am, otherwise I never touch it - unless I'm thirsty." She continues to raise the company's international profile, personally cultivates relationships with customers and retailers and continues to invest in the vineyards. Under her leadership, the first vintage of the legendary "Vieilles Vignes Françaises" was produced in 1961.

• The era of consolidation and innovation (1977 - today):Lily is succeeded at the helm by family members and later by longstanding, trusted employees. Claude d'Hautefeuille, a relative, and later Ghislain de Montgolfier (a descendant of the aviation pioneers), continue the legacy. In 2008, the house became part of the Groupe Bollinger, which, in addition to the Champagne house, also included wine estates in the Loire (Langlois-Château), Burgundy (Chanson Père & Fils) and the Jura (Hubert Brochard) as well as Cognac (Delamain). Since 2008, Charles-Armand de Belenet has led the company as president, supported by head ecologist Denis Bunner and head cellarer Gilles Descôtes. In 2022, Etienne Bizot, great-grandson of Lily Bollinger, takes over the presidency, emphasising the continuity of the family spirit.

II The Bollinger philosophy: unshakeable principles for an unmistakable style

Bollinger's success and its unmistakable profile are based on a number of core principles that are consistently pursued:

1. The dominance of Pinot Noir:Pinot Noir is the soul of Bollinger. With a share of around 60% in its own vineyards and a similar weight in the blends, this grape variety clearly dominates. It gives the wines their structure, strength, depth, complexity and longevity. The focus is on Grand Cru communes such as Aÿ, Verzenay and Louvois.

2. The art of wooden barrel fermentation (Fût de Chêne):This is probably the most striking unique selling point. A significant proportion of the base wines (especially the Pinot Noir for the top wines) are fermented in small, old oak barrels (228 litres). These barrels are decades old (often over 40 years) so as not to transfer woody flavours. Their purpose is gentle micro-oxidation, which gives the wines texture, complexity, maturity flavours and exceptional ageing ability. This labour-intensive method is still practised by very few wineries.

3. The "Réserve" wines: The heart of the Bollinger style,Bollinger has a unique collection of reserve wines, which are not simple base wines, but wines already vinified from previous vintages, kept in magnum bottles under cork and with a little yeast (Méthode Ancestrale). This method, which goes back to Madame Bollinger, preserves the freshness and fruit of the wines for years (sometimes up to 15 years and longer) and gives them additional complexity. When blended, these reserve wines give the non-vintage Champagne its characteristic depth, maturity and consistency - the famous "Bollinger style".

4. The importance of its own vineyards (Domaine):With 179 hectares, 85% of which are Grand Cru and 15% Premier Cru, Bollinger is one of the houses with the largest vineyard holdings. This gives maximum control over the quality from the vine to the bottle, the majority of which is located on the southern slopes of the Montagne de Reims, which are ideal for Pinot Noir. The cultivation follows strict criteria, with a growing focus on sustainability (HVE certification, conversion to organic).

5. Longevity and ageing:Patience is a virtue at Bollinger. The wines mature on the lees significantly longer than required by law. The non-vintage (Special Cuvée) for at least 3 years, the vintage magnums 5-8 years, the R.D. even 8-15 years or more. This long "sur lie" maturation develops the characteristic bread/brioche flavour, complexity and velvety texture.

6. Craft over mass production:Despite its size (approx. 3 million bottles per year) and global presence, Bollinger remains true to its artisanal approach. Fermentation in wooden barrels, manual remuage for all prestige cuvées, the use of reserve magnums - all this requires time, care and expertise that cannot be replaced by machines.

III The icons: The portfolio of the legend

The Bollinger portfolio is manageable, but each product is an icon:

1. Bollinger Special Cuvée (Non-Vintage):the house's calling card and one of the world's most appreciated NV champagnes. A powerful, complex blend (approx. 60% Pinot Noir, 25% Chardonnay, 15% Meunier), enriched with 10-25% reserve wines from magnums. Ripe yellow fruit (apricot, quince), almond, citrus, clear brioche/bread notes, a wonderful spiciness and a structured, velvety texture. Aged on the lees for at least 3 years. The essence of the Bollinger style: rich, profound and infinitely complex.

2. Bollinger Rosé:Not a simple NV Rosé, but a powerful, serious wine made mostly by blending (approx. 5-7% red wine from Bouzy is added). Dominance of Pinot Noir (approx. 62%), supplemented by Chardonnay and Meunier. Intense berry fruit (strawberry, raspberry, pomegranate), floral notes, mineral freshness and the typical Bollinger structure and length. Aged on the lees for at least 3 years.

3. Bollinger La Grande Année (Vintage):The prestige cuvée in outstanding vintages. An assemblage of exclusively Grand and Premier Cru parcels (approx. 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay). A large part of the wine is fermented in wooden barrels, aged on the lees for at least 5 years in the cellar and a further 3 years after disgorgement. A champagne of monumental depth, complexity and ageing potential (often 20 years or more). An expression of the terroir and vintage in Bollinger style: powerful, structured, with ripe fruit flavours, nuances of dried fruit, spices, nuts and an incomparable mineral depth.

4. Bollinger La Grande Année Rosé (Vintage):The rosé version of the Grande Année, equally rare and impressive, produced by adding Bouzy red wine. Fascinating combination of intensity (red fruits, spices) and elegance, with the characteristic depth and structure.

5. Bollinger R.D. (Récemment Dégorgé):A world icon and the crowning glory of the Bollinger philosophy. R.D. stands for "Récemment Dégorgé" (recently disgorged). It is essentially a La Grande Année, but it matures on the lees for an extremely long time - often 12 to 15 years or even longer. It is only disgorged shortly before it is sold. The result is a champagne of breathtaking complexity and vibrancy. The maturity is evident in notes of dried fruit, caramel, coffee, mushrooms, truffles and intense yeast, but the long ageing under pressure maintains an astonishing freshness and precise acidity. A top-class experience that redefines the boundaries of Champagne ageing. Masterpiece from Chef de Caves Mathieu Kauffmann (formerly) and now Gilles Descôtes.

6. Bollinger Vieilles Vignes Françaises (V.V.F.):The ultimate jewel and a window into the past. Made from unfermented Pinot Noir grapes from pre-phylloxeric vines (before around 1880) that are still standing on their own roots. Only two small plots in Aÿ (Clos Saint-Jacques and Chaudes Terres) provide the grapes. The vines are cultivated using the traditional "en foule" method (tightly packed without wire frames). Vinification takes place exclusively in wooden barrels. Minimal production (often only a few thousand bottles per vintage, only in the very best years). A champagne with a unique character: deep dark colour, intense aromas of ripe black fruit, spices, tobacco, earth and smoke, with a tremendous density, depth and almost tannic structure. A living fossil and an unrivalled taste experience.