Kaiserstühler Winzergenossenschaft - Amolterer Eichert Ruländer Auslese 1964

Tasting note: Kaiserstühler Winzergenossenschaft - Amolterer Eichert Ruländer Auslese 1964

(Baden, Germany - Ruländer [Pinot Gris], Auslese)

Vintage 1964 in Baden:
1964 was a solid, but not outstanding vintage in Germany. In Baden, especially in the Kaiserstuhl, the Ruländer benefited from the volcanic soils and the sun-drenched location. The warm days and cool nights of the Kaiserstuhl favoured the development of aromas and acidity. Auslese wines from this vintage have ageing potential, but after six decades most of them are likely to have passed their zenith - especially the simpler co-operative wines.

Sensory description (assuming a well-stored example):

• Colour: Deep amber to old gold, with slight copper reflections and possibly brownish edges. Clear signs of age.

• Nose:Intensely tertiary in character: Honey, overripe apricots, walnut, caramel and a subtle smoky note. Slight oxidative accents (sherry touch) and a hint of dried herbs. Typical petrol notes are absent (as this is not a Riesling), with ripe, sweetish nuances dominating instead.

• Palate:Surprisingly lively for its age, with a lean acidity line that carries the sweet core of candied oranges, dates and maple syrup. The texture is silky, but the body seems slightly thinned out. There are no tannins (typical of white wines), but there is a mineral, almost salty undercurrent.

• Finish: Medium length, with an aftertaste of honeycomb, roasted almonds and a slightly bitter, tea-flavoured finish.

Rating:
A fascinating contemporary document of German winemaking. The 1964 Amolterer Eichert Ruländer shows how even co-operative wines can outlast decades thanks to their sugar and acidity. The sweetness has receded in favour of complex ripe aromas, but the acidity seems tired. Surviving examples offer a melancholy elegance, but are probably mostly in the withering stage.

Recommendation:

• Only try from perfectly stored bottles (cool, dark, moist).

• As a meditation wine or with strong blue cheese (e.g. Roquefort) or nut desserts. No fruity pairings - the wine needs to rest to shine.

Conclusion:
A wine for historians and nostalgics, less for pleasure hunters. Its poetry lies in the ephemeral: a hint of former splendour, cloaked in the patina of time. Anyone who owns an intact bottle should open it soon - the journey is worthwhile as a flavourful journey through time.

(Note: with such old wines, the storage history determines the life or death of the wine!) 🍇