The Dr Loosen winery: where slate, tradition and visionaries redefined Riesling
From its roots in the 19th century to a global icon
I. Historical overview: 200 years of family legacy
The winery in Bernkastel-Kues can look back on a continuous family history since 1808. However, it was only under Ernst Loosen (born 1959), who took over the estate in 1988, that it became an international benchmark for top Riesling. At that time, the estate was on the verge of collapse:
Neglected steep slopes: many plots were overgrown; the land consolidation of the 1970s had favoured terraced monocultures.
Loss of quality: The focus was on mass yields instead of terroir expression.
Radical change of course: Ernie Loosen reduced yields by 70%, grubbed up young vines and concentrated exclusively on the oldest, ungrafted Riesling vines (some planted before 1900).
Saving the steep slopes: His refusal to abandon traditional slate terraces preserved unique micro-terroirs such as the Erdener Prälat and the Wehlener Sonnenuhr.
Biodynamic turnaround: Fully certified organic since 2016 - a statement against industrialised viticulture.
II The wines: Tasting notes from characteristic sites
Dr Loosen's Rieslings combine precise acidity, complex minerality and transparent fruit. Here are some key wines in profile:
Wehlener Sonnenuhr GG (Großes Gewächs) 2022
Aroma: White peach, mirabelle plum, freshly cut blue slate, delicate herbal notes.
Palate: Streamlined acidity, salty texture, long finish with smoke and citrus jam.
Potential: 15-20 years of ageing.
Ürziger Würzgarten Spätlese 2021
Aroma: Exotic explosion - mango, lychee, clove, red pepper (reflection of the volcanic tuff soil).
Palate: Opulent sweetness, carried by lively acidity; mineral core. Typical "spice garden" flavour.
Drinking window: Now until 2040.
Dr L Riesling Trocken (entry-level wine)
Aroma: Green apple, lemon zest, damp pebbles.
Palate: Crisp and direct, suitable for everyday drinking, but with typical Dr Loosen elegance.
Erdener Treppchen ice wine 2019 (rarity)
Aroma: Concentrated apricot, honeycomb, caramel.
Palate: Creamy sweetness, balanced by sharp-edged acidity - not sticky, but floating.
Common denominator of all wines: transparency to the terroir - you can taste the slate, the microclimate, the vintage weather.
III Ernie Loosen: The rebel with a floppy hat and a slate heart
Ernst "Ernie" Loosen is a cult figure in German viticulture - unconventional, passionate, globally networked:
The philosophy: "Wine must speak of the place, not the winemaker." His rejection of fining, yeast additions or artificial acidity correction revolutionised the Moselle.
His style: always in wooden sandals, with a distinctive beard - an ambassador without pretence. His wine presentations are legendary: humorous, scientifically precise, without technical jargon.
Global mission: as co-founder of "Riesling Renaissance", he fights against the image of the "sweet little wine". His US project EROICA (with Château Ste. Michelle) made dry Riesling socially acceptable in America.
Visionary & pragmatist:
Enforced sustainability before it was a trend (solar panels, biodiversity projects).
Utilises climate change creatively: adapting harvest times, greening to combat heat.
Quote that defines him: "Great wines need three things: old vines, poor soils and a winemaker who takes a step back."
IV. Key historical years
| Year | Event |
|---|---|
| 1808 | Founded by the Loosen family |
| 1988 | Ernst Loosen takes over - radical quality offensive |
| 2001 | First GG wine (VDP classification) |
| 2016 | Complete conversion to organic cultivation |
| 2020 | "Winery of the year" (Gault Millau) |
Conclusion: The living archive of the Moselle
Dr Loosen is more than just a winery - it is a cultural archive of the Moselle. Ernie Loosen's uncompromising dedication has saved historic sites from oblivion and turned them into ambassadors of a terroir that is unique in its mineral finesse. His wines are not industrial products, but liquid geology: they tell of Devon slate, steep sun reflections and a family that has learnt to listen to this landscape over six generations.
"My job is not to invent wine - but to discover what the soil gives us."
- Ernst Loosen -
Recommended experiences:
Virtual tour: Use the 360° vineyard tour at drloosen.de.
Vintage comparison: Taste a Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese from 2015, 2018 and 2022 side by side - the climatic development becomes tangible to the senses.
Literature: "Vom Schiefer berührt" ( Mosel wine monograph, 2024), chapter on Loosen.
Dr Loosen Erdener Prälat Riesling Großes Gewächs Reserve
(Vintage: currently 2018, tasted 2025 - in the youth stage)
1st The site: A "sacred" slate rock
Terroir:
Extremely steep slope (75-80% gradient) directly above the Moselle.
Soil: Pure blue Devonian slate with ferrous veins - thin layer of soil, roots penetrate deep into rock crevices.
Microclimate: South-facing + river reflection → extreme solar radiation, cool slate storage at night.
Special feature:
Only 0.6 hectares in size - almost vertical manual labour. Historically reserved for "the prelate" (head of the monastery) → name "Prälat" (lat. Praelatus = the foremost).
2. vinification (reserve philosophy)
Harvest: Exclusively from ungrafted vines (120+ years old), hand-picked in several passes.
Reserve criteria:
Only best barrel of the GG vintage → significantly lower production than the "standard" GG.
Longer fine lees ageing (12-18 months) → more complex texture.
Spontaneous fermentation, no fining.
Vintage 2021:
Cool summer, long autumn → perfect acid structure + ripe aromas.
Tasting note (Vintage 2018 - tasted June 2025)
(Temperature: 10-12°C, in a Zalto universal glass)
Appearance
Colour: Light gold with green reflections - brilliantly clear.
Viscosity: Dense tears ("legs") → Concentration despite filigree appearance.
Nose
First impressions: Explosive minerality - crushed blue slate, steely cool iron notes.
Fruit core: White apricot, ripe Williams pear, underneath fresh pineapple slices and a hint of yuzu.
Levels of complexity:
Herbs: sage leaf, savoury.
Smoke: Chimney ash, associated with carambola (star fruit).
Ageing notes: petrol (subtle), beeswax.
Palate
Attack: Rapid wave of acidity - electrifying, but never aggressive → spans a velvety arc of acidity.
Texture: Dense and juicy at the same time - like a liquid silk veil. Slate minerality as a salty undercurrent.
Fruit & ripeness: Stewed pears, quince paste, carried by sour, jammy peach skin.
Mid-palate: Herbal tea (camomile) and crystalline coolness (mineral water with lemon slices).
Finish: Long, pulsating saltiness → reminiscent of oyster liquor (oyster water).
Finish
Length: Over 90 seconds.
Evolution game: Slate → citrus jam → smoky spice.
Tannin structure: Fine, barely noticeable grip (from the slate rock) → gives skeleton.
Classification & potential
Style: Monumentally dry, but with hypnotic elegance.
Drinking maturity:
Now: Stunningly complex, needs 2-3 hours decanting.
Optimum: 2030-2045+.
Longevity: Until 2060 (acidity + minerality as a framework).
Serving suggestions:
Food: Turbot with morels, sweetbreads in Riesling sauce, or solo as a meditation.
Temperature: 10°C (too cold suffocates the complexity).
Why the "Reserve" is different from the standard GG
| Parameters | GG Reserve | Standard GG |
|---|---|---|
| Vine selection | Centrepieces of the site (deepest roots) | Selection across parcels |
| Lees ageing | 18 months | 10-12 months |
| Texture | Denser, saltier, longer finish | More straightforward, direct |
| production | Only 300-500 bottles | 1,500-2,000 bottles |
Winemaker's quote on the Prälat
"The Prälat is not a wine - it is liquid slate. Here the vine wrestles with the rock, and we only win because we listen."
- Ernst Loosen -
Taster's verdict
The Erdener Prälat GG Reserve is a geological revelation: it combines the power of a Grand Cru Burgundy with the weightlessness of a Mosel Riesling. Its salty, mineral core, supported by seismic acidity, makes it the perfect "drinking mineral" for purists. A wine that does not want to be pleasing - but shows the essence of the place in its purest form. A wine of the century for the patient.
Rating scale:
Complexity: ★★★★★
Ageing potential: ★★★★★
Terroir transparency: ★★★★★
Note:The reserve is only produced in outstanding vintages (e.g. 2019, 2021, 2022). Currently on the market: approx. €180-220/litre (0.75L).
1. key historical data & ownership structure
Founded: 1808 in Bernkastel-Kues (by ancestors of the Loosen family).
Family management: Uninterrupted family ownership for 7 generations.
Key year 1988: Ernst "Ernie" Loosen takes over at the age of 29 - gives up studying archaeology, saves the neglected estate.
Revolutionary measures 1988-1995:
Clearing 60% of the vines (focus on old, ungrafted vines).
Leaves the winegrowers' association (abandons industrial mass production).
Joined the VDP (Association of German Prädikat Wine Estates) in 1991.
2. vineyards & sites: Geological precision
Total area: 18.5 hectares - exclusively Riesling.
Percentage of steep slopes: 96% with >30% inclination (max. 80% in Erdener Prälat).
Slate types per site:
Site Soil type Characteristics Wehlener Sundial Blue Devonian slate Mineral, salty-elegant Ürziger Würzgarten Volcanic tuff + red slate Exotic flavour, opulence Erden Prelate Pure blue slate + iron Powerful density, "liquid rock" Graacher Himmelreich Grey slate + quartzite Fresh, linear acidity Old vines: 35% of the stock > 100 years old (oldest vine: planted in 1896 ).
3. oenological key figures & philosophy
Maximum yield: 45 hl/ha (well below the VDP guideline of 50 hl/ha for GG sites).
Must weights:
Kabinett: 80-90° Oechsle
GG: 95-105° Oechsle
TBA: 150-250° Oechsle
Fermentation:
Spontaneous fermentation with wild yeasts (average duration 4-6 months ).
Fine lees contact: 6-18 months (depending on the wine).
Use of sulphites: Minimal (< 80 mg/l for dry wines).
4. climate change strategy (concrete measures)
Harvest time: Since 2010 18 days earlier on average (preservation of acidity).
Planting: Special drought-resistant mixtures (deep-rooted plants such as sainfoin) to prevent erosion.
Irrigation: Never artificial - vines must drive roots into slate crevices.
Solar project: 178 PV modules on farm buildings (covers 100% of energy requirements).
5. microterroirs & plot management
Precision mapping: Each site is divided into max. 0.2-ha plots.
Example Erdener Prälat:
Area: 0.6 ha
Slope: 75-80%
Vine density: 8,000-10,000 vines/ha
Root depth: Up to 12 metres in slate.
Manual labour: 95% of all work by hand (costs: 5 times higher than flat vineyards).
6. sustainability certificates & biodiversity
Organic certification: Since 2016 (DE-ÖKO-006).
Biodiversity projects:
Steep-slope beehives: 12 colonies for specific "slate honey".
Nesting boxes: 120 for little owl & peregrine falcon.
Greening of vine rows: 40+ plant species (including the rare Moselle aster).
Water recycling: 100% of the cleaning water is filtered and reused.
7. key economic figures (2024)
Annual production: 120,000 bottles (85% of which are exported).
Top export markets: USA (35%), Japan (15%), Scandinavia (12%), UK (10%).
Price range:
Dr L (entry level): €9-12
GG site wines: €45-75
Reserve/rarities (Prälat GG Reserve, TBA): €180-500+.
Visitors: 8,000/year (tastings by appointment only).
8. awards & records
Parker points: 19 wines with 95+ points (including 3x 100 points for TBAs).
Gault Millau: 5 grapes (highest score) since 2018.
Historic milestone: 2005 Wehlener Sonnenuhr TBA - most expensive Mosel Riesling ever sold (auction: €8,450/0.75L).
9. the "Dr Loosen DNA": typical analytical values
(Example: Erdener Prälat GG 2022)
Alcohol: 13.0 %
Residual sugar: 6.5 g/l
Total acidity: 8.2 g/l
pH value: 2.95
Mineral content (ash): 2.8 g/l (high for Riesling!).
10 Ernst Loosen's personality: Unmistakable anecdotes
Quote on convention: "When everyone goes right, I test left."
Rebel against EU norms: Fought successfully against the land consolidation of the 1970s, which wanted to level steep slopes.
Private archive: Owns 800 historical Moselle wine maps (from 1703).
Conclusion: A numbers giant with soul
Dr Loosen combines extreme precision (vineyard area: mapped to the nearest ±0.01 ha) with a passionate philosophy ("minimal intervention"). Every value - from must weight to biodiversity rate - serves one goal: to bring slate, sun and century-old vines unfiltered into the bottle.
"We are not perfumers, we are translators of the terroir."
- Ernst Loosen -
Sources: VDP-Mosel, DLG test reports, Dr Loosen annual report 2024.
Do you need more specific data (e.g. soil analyses, vintage comparisons)?
"We are not winemakers - we are interpreters of the terroir."
The guiding principle of Weingut Dr. Loosen from the perspective of Ernst "Ernie" Loosen can be summarised in a concise credo that permeates his entire philosophy:
