Armand Rousseau - Chambertin 'Clos de Bèze' Grand Cru 1983

Armand Rousseau – Chambertin ‘Clos de Bèze’ Grand Cru 1983

1. Introduction

The 1983 Chambertin 'Clos de Bèze' Grand Cru from Domaine Armand Rousseau is one of Burgundy’s great red wines and is regarded as one of the most sought-after wines of the Côte de Nuits. Domaine Armand Rousseau, founded in 1902, is one of the region’s most renowned estates and enjoys cult status amongst Burgundy enthusiasts. The 1983 vintage is rated as excellent by connoisseurs – Rousseau is said to have produced “excellent ’83s” that year, and the Clos de Bèze is no exception.

2. The winery: Domaine Armand Rousseau

Domaine Armand Rousseau is renowned for its elegant, pure and unmistakably Burgundian style. The estate owns significant Grand Cru plots in Chambertin, Chambertin Clos de Bèze and Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St-Jacques. The combination of old vines, low yields and first-class sites makes the domaine’s wines exceptional creations. Today, the estate is run by Eric Rousseau together with his daughter Cyrielle.

3. The vineyard: Chambertin Clos de Bèze

The Clos de Bèze is one of the most prestigious Grand Cru sites in Gevrey-Chambertin. The Domaine owns two plots within the Clos; the larger is situated in the upper part of the appellation. The soil there is stony and calcareous, with Bathonian calcareous clay at the top and Bajocian crinoid limestone and marl further down.

The Clos de Bèze is often described as the feminine side of Chambertin – it combines the elegance and finesse of the appellation with concentration and depth. The wines are complex, with deep colour, a long finish and great finesse, offering aromas of red berries and oriental spices.

4. Tasting notes

The reviews of the 1983 Clos de Bèze are predominantly positive, although the state of maturity of the individual bottle plays a major role.

4.1. Burghound (93 points, March 2010)

"Moderate bricking but with a significant ruby core remaining. A highly spiced and notably ripe nose combines secondary fruit, warm earth and sous bois hints along with truffle and game notes that merge seamlessly into rich, full, impressively concentrated and energetic flavours that possess ample power and drive on the palate, leading to a lingering and still moderately structured finish that goes on and on.”

Burghound notes that the wine is less refined than usual, even after almost 30 years of bottle ageing. It has reached its peak, and further improvement is unlikely – however, in a magnum bottle it should keep for several more decades.

4.2. Further critical review (93 points, January 2005)

"A soaring nose of mature yet vibrant and wonderfully spicy aromas underpinned by earth, game and an interesting vegetal note... rich, sweet, classy and powerful flavours..."

4.3. Community tasting notes (CellarTracker)

The user reviews on CellarTracker paint a mixed picture, which depends heavily on the storage conditions and the state of maturity of the individual bottle :

• Positive (93 points, December 2015): “The palate was all red fruit and more of the spice, and still had enough acid to keep it fresh and lively, but it was plush and soft, as you’d expect from a 32-year-old. [...] All in all, an excellent bottle of mature red Burgundy.”

• Very positive: “Fully mature, full-bodied yet silky on the palate. Every promise of the nose is fulfilled on the palate. Elegant smoothness combined with firm structure and a touch of dried plums. An incredible pleasure. [...] Very good acidity, a wine of substance, yet smooth as silk.”

• Mixed: “A good bottle with a solid amount of life. Found the nose somewhat muted but the fruit on the palate was nice. It had earthiness but didn’t compromise on the quality of the texture.”

• Critical: "Some fruit lingering, but oxidative and dirty. A lot of vitamin-like minerality."

• Elevated: “A wine that is probably now at its peak. Despite quite a bit of bricking in the glass, this wine has achieved that state of elegance that only great Burgundy reaches, where it seems to hang as if in suspended animation just before its impending collapse.”

4.4. Summary of aromas

• Nose: Ripe secondary fruit, warm earth, forest floor (sous bois), truffles, game, spices

• Palate: Rich, full-bodied, concentrated, powerful, with red fruits and spices; soft and supple whilst retaining good acidity

• Finish: Long-lasting, structured

5. Ratings at a glance

6. Drinking window and maturity

The wine was originally givena drinking window of 1987 to 1990. Later assessments extended this window to 1991 to 2016. In 2010, Burghound noted that the wine had reached its peak and that no further improvement was to be expected. Nevertheless, when well-preserved, it is still described today as an impressive experience. The alcohol content is given as 12.5% to 13.5%.

7. Price and market availability

The 1983 Clos de Bèze from Armand Rousseau is one of the most expensive Burgundies and is almost exclusively available at auctions or through specialist retailers :

The enormous price range can be explained by differences in condition (level of wine, labels, corks) as well as by the origin and storage history of the respective bottle.

8. Conclusion

The 1983 Chambertin ‘Clos de Bèze’ Grand Cru from Armand Rousseau is a legendary Burgundy that, almost four decades after its production, still impresses – at least in bottles of excellent provenance. Critics’ ratings consistently range from 90 to 93 points, and tasting notes describe a mature, complex and elegant wine with notes of red fruit, spices, earth and truffle.

However, the wine clearly shows its age: the colour exhibits ‘moderate bricking’ (brick-red tones), and the condition varies greatly between individual bottles – from ‘muted nose’ and ‘oxidative’ to ‘suspended animation’ and ‘incredible pleasure’. For collectors and connoisseurs of great Burgundies, this wine remains a coveted item which, if stored correctly, can still offer an exceptional tasting experience today.