Philipponnat - Clos des Goisses Brut Champagne 1961

The Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Brut 1961 is not just any champagne – it is a legend in a bottle, a living piece of champagne history and one of the most sought-after collector’s wines in the world.

Here is a detailed report on this absolute rarity.

1. Basic Information

2. Origin & Historical Background

The Philipponnathouse looks back on a history spanning over 500 years. Its roots stretch back to 1522, when the family was first documented in Champagne. The house as we know it today was founded in 1910 in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ by Pierre and Auguste Philipponnat.

However, according to legend, the family’s connection to viticulture goes back even further: as early as the 16th century, Apvril Philipponnat was granted land in Aÿ as a reward for his service in the army of King Francis I. Later, the house’s champagnes found their way onto the tables of princes and even King Louis XIV.

The Clos des Goisses itself was acquiredin 1935 by Pierre Philipponnat. At that time, following the phylloxera crisis, the First World War and the Great Depression, the vineyard had been almost completely abandoned. However, Pierre Philipponnat recognised the unique potential of this terroir – against the advice of his colleagues, who dissuaded him from the concept of a single-varietal ‘monocru’. Thus, he created the region’s first significant single-vineyard Champagne – long before Krug followed this path in 1979 with the Clos du Mesnil.

3. The terroir: a vineyard of extremes

The name ‘Goisses’ is derived from the local dialect and means ‘very steep’. The 5.5-hectare, walled vineyard is the steepest in the whole of Champagne, with a gradient of 30 to 45°. It faces due south and thus enjoys an extreme microclimate: it is the sunniest and warmest vineyard in the region. The combination of extreme slope and southerly exposure results in unparalleled grape ripeness. At the same time , the chalk soil (belemnite limestone), which lies almost at the surface , provides a mineral tension that perfectly balances this intense richness.

4. Vinification & Maturation

The production of Clos des Goisses follows a rigorous, tradition-conscious philosophy that sets it apart from most other Champagnes:

• First pressing: Only the first, finest pressing (cuvée) is used.

• Ageing in wood: The wine is predominantly vinified and agedin oak barrels (approx. 75 per cent).

• No malolactic fermentation: Malolactic fermentation is deliberately omitted to preserve the wine’s natural freshness and vibrancy.

• Extremely long ageing on the lees: The champagne matures for 9 to 11 years on the lees in the house’s cellars. The 1961 vintage spent a full 10 years in the cellars.

• Low dosage: With just 4 g/l, it is classified as an Extra Brut – a very purist style.

5. The 1961 vintage

The 1961vintage is regarded as exceptional in Champagne . A mild winter and favourable conditions during the growing season resulted in grapes of outstanding quality and finesse. For Philipponnat, this was also a period of great winemaking artistry: the then Chef de Caves, René Philipponnat (father of the current winemaker, Charles), worked at Moët & Chandon from 1949 to 1977 and was responsiblethere, amongst other things, for the legendary Dom Pérignon 1961. This underlines the exceptional skill embodied in this wine.

6. Character & Taste Profile

After more than half a century of bottle ageing, the Clos des Goisses 1961 displays a complex, mature profile that connoisseurs describeas ‘fresh and vinous’.

• Nose: The bouquet is intense and refined. It reveals aromas of lemon and bergamot, as well as notes of brioche and almond. Nutty, slightly peaty, herbal and tea-like aromas are also typical of this champagne .

• Palate: The wine is well-structured, fresh and dry. It displays impressive length and body, in which the robust, structure-giving characteristics of Pinot Noir dominate. The mouthfeel is creamy and dense, with a long, mineral finish.

7. Reviews & Awards

8. Rarity and Availability

The Philipponnat Clos des Goisses 1961 is an absolute rarity. It is not available through regular retail channels and only very rarely turns up at auctions or with specialist dealers in rare wines.

• Availability: The few bottles that do find their way onto the market usually come from private collections.

• Price: It is difficult to quote specific current prices, as each sale is a unique case. For reference: an auction lot for a bottle of the Clos des Goisses 1973 fetched £572 (including buyer’s premium) in London in 2006 . The far rarer and older 1961 vintage would cost many times that amount today.

9. Conclusion

The Philipponnat Clos des Goisses Brut 1961 is far more than just an old champagne. It is the forefather of all single-vineyard champagnes, a daring experiment that became a legend, and an authentic testament to one of Champagne’s greatest terroirs.

Its origins in the region’s steepest and sunniest vineyard, its decades of ageing, and the hallmark of one of the most traditional families make it a Holy Grail for collectors. This is a champagne that is not merely drunk, but celebrated – a taste experience that embodies the pure essence of Pinot Noir, chalky soil and over 60 years of ageing in the bottle.