Bruno Giacosa - Barbaresco 'Gallina di Neive' 1998

Bruno Giacosa – Barbaresco 'Gallina di Neive' 1998

1. Introduction & Significance

The Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco 'Gallina di Neive' 1998 is a wine of outstanding significance for lovers of Piedmont. Bruno Giacosa (1929–2018) is regarded as one of Italy’s greatest winemakers and is often compared to the Burgundian legend Lalou Bize-Leroy. Robert Parker praised Giacosa’s “consistent brilliance”.

The 1998 vintage is of particular significance as it is the last vintage that Giacosa bottled as a single cru from this vineyard. The Gallina vineyard is situated on the south-western side of Neive, facing south, with calcareous soils.

2. Technical details

3. Tasting notes (summary)

Colour

The wine displays a deep garnet-red colour with the first signs of brownish edges (bricking) – a sign of mature development.

Nose (bouquet)

The aromas are multi-layered and complex:

• Floral notes: violets, roses, geraniums

• Red fruits: cherries, strawberries, raspberries

• Spice & earth: cigar box, tar, rosemary, fennel

• Mature notes: dried leaves, stock, iron, leather, balsamic notes

• Sweet notes: marzipan, brown spices

Palate

• Acidity: refreshing and well-integrated

• Tannins: robust, but becoming refined and well-integrated with age

• Body: medium to full

• Finish: long and harmonious

4. Reviews

Community reviews (CellarTracker)

• Average score: 91.3 points from 79 reviews

• Individual ratings:

  • 96 points (July 2024): “Ruby red with hints of brown and garnet on the rim. Red fruit, mostly cherry, rose petals and minerals on the nose. Fine, integrated tannins with, of course, refreshing acidity.”

  • 93 points (September 2022): "Slightly dusty on the nose with floral notes of violets and roses, cherries, chocolate, and strawberries. The palate seems a bit lighter than the nose with good acidity, more red fruit, particularly cherries, despite the powerful tannins. A lovely finish."

  • 92 points (January 2019): “Fully matured yet not tired. The nose is more savoury and autumnal for a Nebbiolo. Tar, rose petals, iron, leather, stock, nettles, decaying leaves, and some balsamic notes.”

Critics’ ratings

• Wine-Searcher: 91/100 points (1 critic’s rating)

• Robert Parker awarded the 1998 Barbaresco Gallina di Neive95 points in 2001

5. Drinking Window & Ageing Potential

More than 25 years after harvest, the wine is now at its optimal drinking maturity:

• A tasting in 2013 described it as “right around peak ”

• Others see further potential: “Upside from here, and maybe it will resemble the ’88 or ’90 in a decade or so”

• Recommendation: Decant for several hours (some sources recommend 2–7 hours)

The wine displays a remarkable balance between ripeness and freshness – the fruit is still superbly present even after almost 20 years.

6. Prices & Availability

7. Conclusion & Characterisation

The Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco ‘Gallina di Neive’ 1998 is a wine of great elegance and harmony. It does not display the power and density of some other Giacosa wines (such as the Falletto), but captivates with its delicacy, balance and an almost effortless grace.

One taster summed it up aptly: “This wine has never been a barn burner by Giacosa standards, but this is otherwise a lovely, well-balanced, understated and harmonious bottle of wine. There is an effortlessness and harmony to it. Not everything has to be full-scale or profound.”

As the final vintage of this cru, the wine also holds particular significance for collectors. It pairs superbly with mature cheeses, truffle dishes or hearty meat dishes.

This report is based on community tasting notes, critics’ reviews and retailer information. The prices quoted are subject to change.