Angelo Gaja - Barbaresco 'Costa Russi' 1983

Angelo Gaja – Barbaresco 'Costa Russi' 1983

1. Introduction

The Angelo Gaja Barbaresco 'Costa Russi' 1983 is an icon of Piedmontese winemaking and an outstanding testament to Angelo Gaja’s revolutionary vision. The wine comes from the renowned Costa Russi cru in Barbaresco and is today regarded as one of the greatest Italian wines of its era. In a tasting of three Italian heavyweights from the 1983 vintage, the Costa Russi was singled outas the most ethereal andvibrant wine, receiving an outstanding 96 points. Although the 1983 vintage was not an easy one – four days of rain made a careful harvest crucial – Gaja once again demonstrated his extraordinary skill.

2. The estate and the winemaker

Angelo Gaja (born 1940) is undoubtedly one of the most significant figures in Italian viticulture. In 1961, he took over the family estate in the Langhe hills, founded in 1859 by his great-grandfather Giovanni Gaja . Today, the estate cultivates around 100 hectares of vineyards and does not source any grapes from external suppliers.

Angelo Gaja revolutionised winemaking in Piedmont with methods that were far ahead of their time:

• selection of the best plots for single-vineyard wines

• Yield reduction to achieve greater concentration

• Ageing in new French barriques instead of the traditional large Yugoslavian oak casks

• Introduction of new grape varieties – he was the first winemaker to plant Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc in Piedmont

His finest Barbaresco plots – Sorì San Lorenzo, Sorì Tildìn and Costa Russi – are now counted amongst Italy’s greatest wines. Gaja has repeatedly been named ‘Man of the Year’ by Decanter and Wine Spectator and has won Gambero Rosso’s‘Tre Bicchieri’ more often than any other winemaker.

3. The wine in detail

3.1 The Costa Russi vineyard

The name Costa Russi is derived from‘costa’ (a hillside facing the sun) and the name of the former owners of this plot. The vineyard lies at an altitude of around 230 metres and covers 4.3 hectares. Angelo Gaja’s daughter, Gaia, describes Costa Russi as the freshest and most floral of the estate’s Barbaresco crus.

3.2 Viticultural Data

• Grape variety: Nebbiolo (with a small proportion of Barbera)

• Alcohol content: 13.5%

• Colour: Red

• Appellation: Barbaresco DOCG

• Serving temperature: 16–18 °C

• Body: Structured

• Aroma intensity: High

4. Tasting notes

4.1 Appearance

The wine presents itself in an intense garnet red with orange highlights, which tell the story of the wine’s maturation over more than four decades.

4.2 Nose

The bouquet is ethereal and complex: wilted violets, liquorice, red fruit jam and rose. These are complemented by spicy and balsamic nuances. One taster describes the aromas as“intense, fresh red berries, enveloped in nuances of rose petals, herbs, tobacco and an exquisiteminerality”. These intense, multi-layered aromas are presented with extraordinary finesse.

Another taster noted hints of charcoal, sweet and fresh red berries, as well as the signature rosewater note, which is complemented over time by tobacco and leather.

4.3 Palate

On the palate ,the wine is structured and enveloping, with silky tannins that have been perfectly refined by the long ageing period. The masterful balance between lingering freshness and tertiary notes of tobacco and leather is impressive.

The wine critic Cailles describes the 1983 Costa Russi as “perfect elegance, light as a feather, exceptional precision and with a lingering, pure fruit core”. The structure is described as “ethereal, to die for” and the wine shows no signs of deterioration. Another taster remarked: “Liquid butter, cherries, fresh. A magnificent wine!”.

The silky and lively texture is underpinned by polished tannins and a refined acidity that lends the wine lift and energy.

5. Rating and Classification

The 1983 Gaja Costa Russi is unanimously hailedby connoisseurs as a masterpiece:

In a comparative tasting with the Soldera (94 points) and the Pepe Montepulciano VV (92 points), the Costa Russi clearly came out on top. The taster’s comment sums up the wine’s uniqueness: “If only all Barolos would age as gracefully as this bottle.”

Drinking window: According to CellarTracker, the ideal drinking window is between 1994 and 2009 – yet recent tastings from 2023 show that the wine remains in excellent condition well beyond this period.

6. Market prices and auction results

The 1983 Gaja Costa Russi is traded on the secondary market as a sought-after rarity:

Prices vary depending on the condition of the bottle (level of liquid, label, capsule) and the auction house.

7. Conclusion

The 1983 Angelo Gaja Barbaresco ‘Costa Russi’ is a living testament to the wine-growing revolution in Piedmont. With over 40 years of bottle ageing, it is in breathtaking condition: an ethereal bouquet of violets, red berries and roses; on the palate, it is silky, well-structured and exceptionally fresh. For collectors and lovers of great Italian wines ,this Costa Russi is a highly sought-after collector’s item, fetching prices at auction ranging from 250 to over 400 euros per bottle.

As one connoisseur aptly put it: “An ethereal, vibrant masterpiece – Gaja in the classical, not the modern style.” And even after more than four decades, this wine shows no signs of deterioration – a true testament to the exceptional quality and longevity that Angelo Gaja imbues in his wines.