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Angelo Gaja – Barbaresco ‘Costa Russi’ 1979

1. Introduction

The Barbaresco ‘Costa Russi’ is one of Angelo Gaja’s three legendary single-vineyard Barbarescos , which rank among Italy’s most sought-after wines. The Gaja family acquired the vineyard, covering approximately 4 hectares,in 1967. The vineyard is situated in the municipality of Barbaresco on a slightly lower-lying and cooler site than the neighbouring top-tier vineyard Sori Tildin. The name ‘Costa Russi’ is derived from ‘Costa’ (sun-exposed slope) and the nickname of the former owner.

The 1979 vintage marks a decisive phase in Gaja’s career. Angelo Gaja had taken over the estate in 1961 and, in the 1970s , began marketing single-vineyard wines – an idea that was revolutionary in Piedmont at the time. 1979 was also the year in which Gaja began plantingChardonnay in the ‘Gaia & Rey’ vineyard – further evidence of his pioneering spirit.


2. Vineyard & Terroir

CharacteristicDetails
VineyardCosta Russi, municipality of Barbaresco (Piedmont)
Sizeapprox. 4 hectares (10 acres)
OwnerThe Gaja family (since 1967)
Microclimatecooler than the higher-altitude sites of Sori Tildin and Sori San Lorenzo
Grape varieties95% Nebbiolo, 5% Barbera

The soil is rich in limestone and marl, which lends the wines complexity, longevity and great elegance.


3. The 1979 vintage

The 1979 vintage in Piedmont is generally described as good, although the wines were intended to be enjoyed relatively early. However, the 1979 Costa Russi has exceeded all expectations and proved to be exceptionally long-lived – a testament to the exceptional quality of Gaja’s top vineyards.

The wine now bears the Barbaresco DOCGdesignation – although this classification was not officially introduced until 1980. At the time of bottling, Barbaresco was still a DOC, but was later retroactively upgraded to DOCG.


4. Winemaking & Ageing

The vinification of the 1979 Costa Russi followed Gaja’s modern approach, inspired by Burgundian models:

StepDetails
Maceration timeapprox. 20 days in a stainless steel tank
Malolactic fermentationin new Hungarian barriques (225 or 300 litres)
Barrique ageing12–14 months
Further ageing in large casksa further 12 months
Resting period before release12 months
Alcohol content13% – 13.5%

5. Tasting notes & ratings

The 1979 Costa Russi is now describedas a fully matured, classic Barbaresco that has reached its full potential.

Colour

Amedium-intensity, tawny (brick-red) colour – typical of a mature Nebbiolo.

Nose

The aromas are complex and well-developed:

  • Fruit: cherries, plums, blackberries

  • Spicy & toasty notes: chocolate, cappuccino, coffee

  • Earthy & tertiary notes: forest floor, truffle (porcini), orange peel, roasted game bird, subtle smoky note

Palate

  • Body: full-bodied to medium-bodied

  • Tannins: mellow, soft and refined – perfectly integrated

  • Acidity: energetic, lively

  • Finish: long, complex and very elegant, with hints of cocoa

Ratings

SourceRating
Wine Enthusiast98/100 points
Tastingbook92/100 points (algorithm-based overall rating)
John GilmanTruly a wonderful bottle of fully matured Barbaresco”

6. Market & Collectors’ Value

The 1979 Costa Russi is a sought-after collector’s wine and is rarely available on the open market. Prices vary depending on condition and bottle size within the following range:

Bottle sizePrice / EstimateSource
0.75-litre bottleapprox. €299 (list price)
0.75-litre bottle€150–200 (auction estimate)
0.75-litre bottle€365 (retailer)
3.7-litre bottle (Imperial)$1,455 (auction sale 2021)
3 bottles (0.75 l)€270 (auction bid)

Due to their age ,the bottles often show slight label imperfections (stains, yellowing), which is common for wines of this age. The liquid level is typically at ‘base neck’ or 2 cm below the cork – a very good level for a wine that is almost 50 years old.


7. Conclusion

The 1979 Angelo Gaja Barbaresco ‘Costa Russi’ is an extraordinary testament to Gaja’s revolutionary work in Piedmont. It combines the elegance and finesse of the Costa Russi vineyard with the structural power of Nebbiolo, proving that Gaja’s wines remain ready to drink at the very highest level even after more than four decades.

With scores of up to 98 points from renowned critics, it ranks among the very best matured Barbarescos and is a must-have for any collector of top-quality Piedmontese wines. Anyone lucky enough to find a bottle in good condition will experience a wine that encapsulates the history of Italian winemaking in a single glass.

Alcohol Alcohol: 15
Colour Colour: red
Country Country: Italy
Filling quantity Filling quantity: 750 ml
Flavour Flavour: dry
Grape variety Grape variety: Nebbiolo
Product type Product type: Wine
Region Region: Piedmont
Type of wine Type of wine: Red wine
Vintage Vintage: 1979
Producer Producer: Angelo Gaja

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Allergens: Sulphites

Bottler: Producer