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WA 100 (2/1997): Haut-Brion has been the most consistent first-growth over the last decade, producing top-notch wines, even in such tough years as 1987, 1993, and 1994. The 1989 is one of a handful of truly profound wines from a vintage that tends to be overrated, save for the Pomerols, a few St.-Emilions, and some overachievers in the Medoc. However, 1989 was an extraordinary success for Jean Delmas, the administrator of Haut-Brion and La Mission-Haut-Brion. The prodigious 1989 Haut-Brion is one of the greatest first-growths I have ever tasted. It has always reminded me of what the 1959 must have tasted like in its youth, but it is even richer and more compelling aromatically. The wine exhibits an opaque ruby/purple colour, as well as a sweet nose of jammy fruit, tobacco, spicy oak, minerals, and smoke. Fabulously concentrated, with huge levels of fruit, extract, and glycerin, this wine is nearly viscous because of its thickness and richness. Low acidity gives the wine even more appeal and adds to its precociousness. The wine has not budged in development since it was first bottled, although it has always provided thrilling drinking because of its voluptuous texture. It needs another 5-6 years of bottle age before it will begin to develop Haut-Brion's fabulous fragrance. Expect it to hit its plateau of maturity around 2003-2005 and drink well for 15-25 years.

Report: Château Haut-Brion 1989 (Magnum 1,5l) - A legend of Bordeaux

1. wine & origin:

  • Name: Château Haut-Brion

  • Vintage: 1989

  • Format: Magnum (1.5 litres)

  • Appellation: Pessac-Léognan, Graves, Bordeaux, France

  • Classification: Premier Grand Cru Classé (First Growth, since 1855)

  • Grape varieties (estimated): Approx. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc (varies slightly depending on the vintage)

  • Special feature Format:Magnums age more slowly and harmoniously than standard bottles (more favourable ratio of wine to oxygen). For a wine of this age and quality, the magnum format is particularly sought after.

2. the 1989 vintage in Bordeaux:

  • A vintage of the century: 1989 is one of the absolutely outstanding, legendary vintagesin 20th century Bordeaux. An extremely hot, dry summer with perfect ripeness led to exceptionally ripe, concentrated and structured wines with great ageing potential.

  • Haut-Brion characteristics:Haut-Brion is known for its elegance, complexity, mineral depth (due to the gravelly soil) and unique aromatics, often with notes of cedar, tobacco and earthy nuances. The 1989 embodies the power of the vintage and the typical finesse of the Château in perfect balance.

3. sensory profile (based on numerous tasting reports over the years):

  • Colour:Deep garnet red to brick red, already with ripe orange glints at the rim, but mostly still amazingly dense colour in the middle.

  • Nose : Monumental complexity,a bouquet of ripe black fruits (plum, blackcurrant), dried figs, cedar wood, fine cigar box, leather, truffle, wet earth, graphite and a characteristic smoky, mineral note ("fumée"). Tertiary flavours dominate, but are wonderfully interwoven with the original fruit and spicy elements (liquorice, pepper).

  • Palate : Full-bodied, silky and breathtakingly harmonious, the tannins, once powerful, are now fully integrated, supple and silky. The acidity is present and gives a lively freshness, but appears perfectly integrated. The flavours of ripe plums, tobacco, chocolate, sandalwood and mineral salinity unfold in layers. The wine is incredibly dense and concentrated, yet elegant at the same time. Long-lasting, multi-faceted finish that lingers for minutes.

  • Overall impression: A wine of exceptional maturity, complexity and balance, it represents the ideal synthesis of the powerful opulence of the 1989 vintage and the classic elegance and mineral character of Haut-Brion. It is at the absolute peak of its drinking maturity, but thanks to its structure and magnum format, it still has great ageing potential (at least 10-15+ years).

4. importance & rarity:

  • Cult status: the Haut-Brion 1989 is counted among the greatest red wines of the 20th century worldwide and is an absolute collector's dream.

  • Highest ratings:Regularly top marks (100 points from Robert Parker, later confirmed; 99/100 from renowned critics). Parker repeatedly described it as one of the greatest wines he has ever tasted.

  • Ultimate rarity (magnum): Even the standard bottle is extremely rare and sought after. A magnum of the best provenance is an absolute rarity and a highlight of any collection.

  • Investment value: Top prices at auctions. Magnums regularly realise five-figure sums (often well over €6,000 to well over €7,000, depending on condition, provenance and auction house).

5 Serving recommendations:

  • Temperature: Approx. 16-18°C.

  • Decanting: Decant carefullyat least 1-2 hours before serving to separate the sediment and allow the wine to fully develop. With older bottles, careful decanting (without decanting lees) may also be advisable. Observe the development in the glass.

  • Glass: Large, bulbous Bordeaux glass (e.g. Riedel Sommeliers or Grand Cru).

  • Accompaniment:Noble, not too dominant dishes: rack of lamb, fine game (venison, stag), truffle dishes (e.g. risotto), high-quality beef (fillet) or simply pure as a contemplation wine. The wine is the absolute main course.

  • Opening:Be extremely careful with the cork! Open carefully with an awl or a two-pronged corkscrew. The cork is fragile after 35 years.

6 Condition & risks:

  • Provenance is crucial! The value and quality depend absolutelyon perfect, uninterrupted storage (constantly cool ~12-14°C, dark, 70-80% humidity, lying flat). Any fluctuation or exposure to heat is detrimental.

  • Fill level:Must be high on the neck ("into neck" - i.n.). A low fill level (e.g. "mid shoulder" or lower) indicates evaporation/oxidation and significantly reduces value and quality.

  • Corks: High risk of brittle corks or leakage, which can lead to oxidation (flat, sherry-like) or cork defects.

  • Tasting risk:Even with the best storage, each bottle is an individual. Some bottles may have passed their plateau (rare for this vintage and format), others may be slightly reduced (often airing out). A certain amount of risk is part of the game.

Conclusion:

The Château Haut-Brion 1989 Magnum is an absolute icon of the wine world, a wine of timeless greatness and one of the outstanding representatives not only of its château, but of Bordeaux as a whole. It combines the monumental power and maturity of the 1989 vintage of the century with the unmistakable mineral elegance and complexity of Haut-Brion. After more than 35 years, it is at a dreamlike peak, which it will maintain for many years to come thanks to the magnum format.

Its enjoyment is a rare privilege and a historic event. It embodies the essence of a great, mature Bordeaux and offers a sensory experience of unforgettable depth and harmony. As a magnum, it is even rarer and promises a potentially even better evolution than the standard bottle. Owning or tasting such a bottle requires the utmost confidence in its provenance and is a statement of the highest wine culture. It is not just a wine, but a monument to viticulture.

One of the modern wine legends of our time is the Haut Brion, which has certainly been drunk over 20 times. After a short breather at the turn of the millennium, during which this still youthful wine was somewhat closed, it is now back to 100/100 in the glass without any ifs or buts, most recently in 2007 in the Braui. Now almost priceless, but still worth every cent (source: wineterminator.com Dr Becker).
Alcohol Alcohol: 14
Colour Colour: red
Country Country: France
Filling quantity Filling quantity: 1500 ml
Flavour Flavour: dry
Grape variety Grape variety: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot
Product type Product type: Wine
Region Region: Bordeaux
Type of wine Type of wine: Red wine
Vintage Vintage: 1989
Producer Producer: Château Haut Brion

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Allergens: Sulphites

Bottler: Producer