Angelo Gaja - Barbaresco 'Costa Russi' 1986

Angelo Gaja – Barbaresco ‘Costa Russi’ 1986

1. Introduction

The Barbaresco ‘Costa Russi’ is one of Angelo Gaja’s three legendary single-vineyard Barbarescos . The Gaja family acquired the vineyard, covering some 4 hectares,in 1967. The first commercial bottling of the single-vineyard Costa Russi took place in 1978 – the 1986 vintage thus belongs to the early era of this prestigious cuvée.

The 1986 vintage falls within a period when Angelo Gaja was already regarded as a revolutionary in Piedmontese viticulture. In the 1970s, he had introduced the marketing of single-vineyard wines – an idea that was revolutionary in Piedmont at the time – and consistently focused on yield reduction and ageing in new French barriques.

2. Vineyard & Terroir

The Costa Russi vineyard is considered the most delicate of Gaja’s three single-vineyard sites and offers a Burgundian sensibility within the structure of the Nebbiolo. It is approachable in its youth, yet gains remarkable depth with age . The wine is often described as one of quiet refinement, masterful restraint and enduring beauty.

3. The 1986 vintage

The 1986 vintage in Piedmont is generally regarded as solid , although it is not among the absolute top vintages of the decade. However, the 1986 Costa Russi – like many Gaja wines – has provedto be long-lived and capable of further development.

The wine now bears the Barbaresco DOCGdesignation . Up until the 1995 vintage, the Costa Russi was classified as Barbaresco; from 1996 onwards, Gaja made a conscious decision to abandon the DOCG classification for its single-vineyard wines and to market them instead as Langhe DOC.

4. Winemaking & Ageing

The vinification of the 1986 Costa Russi followed Gaja’s modern approach, inspired by Burgundian models:

5. Tasting notes & ratings

The 1986 Costa Russi is now describedas a mature, complex Barbaresco that has reached its full potential – although opinions differ as to its current condition.

Nose

Delicate and impressively deep. Typical aromas of a mature Nebbiolo:

• Fruit: black cherry, raspberry

• Spice & earth: leather, spices, tobacco, liquorice

• Tertiary notes: dried roses, autumn leaves

Palate

• Body: full-bodied, rich and velvety

• Tannins: firm but well-integrated

• Finish: unique, rich and long-lasting

Ratings

Note on the ratings: The ratings are mixed. Whilst some tasters describe the wine as delicate and impressive, others report clear signs of ageing. A CellarTracker user commented in 2009 that the wine seemed ‘well past its prime’ upon opening , but opened up somewhat after 5 to 10 minutes in the glass and becameacceptable – though not great. Another user simply described it as “dead” in 2025 . This highlights the wide variation between bottles of wines of this age – the condition of the bottle is crucial.

6. Market & Collectors’ Value

The 1986 Costa Russi is a sought-after collector’s wine, which is rarely available on the open market. Prices vary depending on condition and source within the following range:

The price range is very wide – from under €100 at auctions to over €600 in specialist shops. This reflects the high degree of dependence on the condition of the wine (level, label, storage history).

Condition: Due to their age , the bottles on offer often show slight label imperfections (wear, stains), which is common for wines of this age. For well-preserved bottles , the fill level is specified as ‘into neck’ – a very good indication for a wine that is almost 40 years old.

7. Conclusion

The 1986 Angelo Gaja Barbaresco ‘Costa Russi’ is a wine with character – a testament to Gaja’s revolutionary work in Piedmont, but one that also highlights the challenges of storing a Nebbiolo that is nearly 40 years old.

With ratings ranging from 89 (Wine Spectator) to, in some cases, disappointing experiences with poorly stored bottles, this vintage offers no guarantee of a perfect drinking experience – in contrast to the highly acclaimed 1979 vintage (98 points). For collectors and connoisseurs of top-quality Piedmontese wines, however, the 1986 vintage remains a fascinating piece of wine-growing history: It represents the early era of Gaja’s single-vineyard Barbaresco and, when well-preserved, offers a delicate, complex tasting experience with a unique, long finish.

Anyone lucky enough to find a bottle that has been stored excellently should decant it well in advance and enjoy it with patience – the wine needs time to open up in the glass.