Count Wolff Metternich'sches Weingut vorm. Freiherr Zorn von Burlach - Durbacher Schlossberg Clevner Traminer Trockenbeerenauslese 1963 375ml

Tasting note: Count Wolff Metternich'sches Weingut vorm. Freiherr Zorn von Burlach - Durbacher Schlossberg Clevner Traminer Trockenbeerenauslese 1963

Appearance:
An opulent amber gold colour with copper reflections reveals the wine's impressive age. The colour shows a slightly translucent depth, typical of matured sweet wines, while fine tears at the edges of the glass hint at the concentrated sweetness.

Nose:
A complex, tertiary bouquet unfolds with intensity: overripe honeydew melon, thickened quince pulp and dried mango slices dominate, accompanied by noble botrytis notes of saffron, cane sugar and a pinch of truffle. Underlying flavours of old wooden barrels, beeswax and a delicate minerality resonate. The aroma is reminiscent of an ancient spice library - mysterious and deeply intricate.

Palate:
The palate reveals a majestic sweetness that is never overpowering. Flavours of candied orange blossom, caramelised figs and cooked pear compote merge with nuances of roasted almonds, clove honey and an earthy spiciness. The acidity, surprisingly lively for its age, carries the sweetness like a silk scarf and gives the wine a floating lightness. The texture is oily-dense, almost syrupy, but infused with a salty minerality that maintains focus.

Finish:
An endlessly long finish that lingers minutes later with echoes of liquorice root, dark rock candy and a smoky cedar note. The acidity leaves a refreshing citrus blossom bitterness that erases any heaviness.

Structure:
Full-bodied yet elegant, with an alcohol level that remains discreetly in the background (probably around 8-9%). The residual sugar concentration is monumental, but perfectly balanced by the mineral-salty character and lively acidity. The tannins (rare in white wines) could come from botrytis or oak ageing and lend a filigree graininess.

Vintage context:
1963 was a cool, challenging vintage in Baden with a late onset of autumn sunshine. The production of a Trockenbeerenauslese required tireless selection and luck with botrytis development. This wine is a testament to the winery's craftsmanship - a triumph over the whims of nature.

Overall impression:
A wine that transcends time and space. The Clevner Traminer TBA 1963 is not a simple sweet wine, but a kaleidoscopic experience of maturity, complexity and surprising freshness. Despite its sweetness, the mineral precision of the Durbacher Schlossberg makes it seem almost vertical. A wine for contemplative moments, best enjoyed solo as a "meditation wine" - or with foie gras terrine, blue cheese or a dark chocolate tart with salted caramel.

Rarity:
A rarity even among German TBAs: the vineyard, the historic vintage and the small-scale Durbacher Schlossberg vineyard make this wine a mythical object. Surviving bottles are testimony to a bygone era of viticulture, when patience and a willingness to take risks were still virtues.

Storage advice:
If stored ideally (cool, dark, undisturbed), this wine could last for decades - but why wait? It is now in the final stages of its journey, where sweetness and complexity find a magical harmony.

"Clevner" note: Traditionally used in Baden for Traminer, not to be confused with "Klevner" for Pinot Noir. This wine is a tribute to the forgotten diversity of German grape varieties.