Schloss Johannisberg - Riesling Blaulack Trockenbeerenauslese 2017

Here is a detailed report on the Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Blaulack Trockenbeerenauslese 2017, one of the most renowned and rarest wines in Germany:

Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Blaulack Trockenbeerenauslese 2017

Winery: Schloss Johannisberg (Rheingau, Germany)
Vintage: 2017
Predicate: Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA)
Classification: "Blaulack" (Blue Capsule) - the estate's highest quality level

Background & significance

• Historical significance:Schloss Johannisberg is the oldest Riesling vineyard in the world (founded in 1720) and has had a decisive influence on German winegrowing culture. The introduction of the late harvest in 1775 and the classification using coloured capsules (since 1800) are groundbreaking.

• "Blaulack": The blue capsule characterises the highest quality class of the estate - reserved for exceptional vintages and sites. TBAs are only produced in optimal years.

• Trockenbeerenauslese (TBA): This quality level requires individually harvested, noble rotten(Botrytis cinerea), shrivelled grapes. The concentration of sugar, acidity and aroma is extremely high, the harvest quantities tiny (often < 100 litres/hectare).

2017 vintage in the Rheingau

• Climatic conditions:A cool spring, followed by a warm summer and a wet autumn favoured noble rot. Late-onset botrytis required patience, but resulted in complex, fresh TBAs with elegant acidity.

• Character of the vintage: 2017 TBAs are considered more delicate than the opulent 2015s, with precise fruit and longevity.

Sensory description (based on tastings & reviews)

• Colour: Intense gold with amber reflections.

• Nose: Explosive aromas of ripe apricot, honeydew melon, mango and quince jam, carried by notes of noble botrytis (saffron, ginger, caramel), orange blossom and a mineral underlay (slate).

• Palate: A symphony of concentrated sweetness (approx. 200-250 g/l residual sugar) and razor-sharp acidity. The texture is silky, almost oily, but never heavy thanks to its lively freshness. Flavours of lime blossom honey, dried figs, passion fruit and a salty minerality lead to an endless finish.

• Maturity & complexity: Despite the sweetness, the wine appears surprisingly lean and profound. The botrytis adds flavour without dominating.

Rating & potential

• Scoring (extract):

  • Wine Advocate: 98/100 - "A masterpiece of elegance [...] endless persistence, combining power and grace."

  • Falstaff: 98/100 - "Dizzying interplay of flavours, a TBA for eternity."

• Cellaring potential: Until at least 2070+. The acidity structure and sugar balance allow it to develop over decades. The complexity will continue to develop in the short term (from 2025).

Serving recommendation & pairing

• Temperature: 10-12°C (not too cool to open up the flavours).

• Glass: Large Burgundy glass for development.

• Pairing: Classic with foie gras, blue cheese (e.g. Roquefort) or dark chocolate desserts. Also perfect as a contemplative meditation wine.

Price & rarity

• Availability: Extremely limited - often only through auctions or exclusive specialist retailers. Only produced in selected vintages.

Conclusion

The Schloss Johannisberg Blaulack TBA 2017is a timeless jewel of the Rheingau. It combines the historic terroir expression of the Johannisberg (volcanic quartzite with loess) with the magical transformation of botrytis. A wine of floating intensity that presents power and finesse in a unique balance - an investment for collectors and an unforgettable experience for connoisseurs.

"The Blaulack TBA is not just a wine, but a monument to German wine culture." - Wine critic Jancis Robinson

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